Friday, October 2, 2009

Vogue 1018 - Sandra Betzina Skirt (#2)

I've repeated myself! I liked this Sandra Betzina skirt so much, I made it again. This time, in a sheer plaid novelty seersucker. My thinking was that the play of the plaid over plaid (at different angles) would be interesting visually. However, once I had washed the plaid fabric, it puckered up so much that the fabric no longer seems particularly sheer, so I'm not sure you can appreciate this effect in the final skirt. Oh well.

My alterations for this skirt are the same as last time: the drape was cut so the grain was parallel to the front. The waistband was converted to elastic with a rectangular yoke. The skirt was lined with a striped sheer black fabric. (I assumed that three layers of sheer fabrics would be opaque enough. If not, well, I like my legs, so enjoy. ;)

I'm not quite done with this pattern yet. I think I need to make it again, in a solid black jersey. :)

Sewing Workshop - Teagarden T

Oooh, I love this t-shirt! This design, based on a classic Issey Miyake design, is wonderful and I am soooo glad that Sewing Workshop has made the pattern available. It consists of two pattern pieces, not counting the neck interfacing pattern piece: the front/back/sleeve/collar (all in one), and the underarm gusset. Now, this gusset can be problematic for some folks, particularly those who bear no resemblance to the Venus of Willendorf (in which case, see the next paragraph). But for us busty folk, the gusset is vunderbar!!! It adds fullness just where you need it and the fullness doesn't overwhelm you anywhere else.

In my case, I cut out a Large, based on my high bust measurement, and removed the curvature at the waist – nice straight lines for me, thank you very much. (It's like sewing for a guy, in that regard.) That's it, that is the only change I made. I first sewed the top up in a very nasty nylon knit (which I've found is excellent for scrubbing dirty floors and counters), and it fit perfectly!

If you don't need the huge gusset and don't desire the "design line" of fabric drooping under your armpits, you might want to use the gusset reducing instructions posted by Linda.

Because this is a Miyake design, there are certain resemblances to origami in its construction. This means that the pattern pieces have many places you must mark. These marks have labels: A, B, C, and so on, up through K. Some people use colored tailor tacks to keep them all straight. That is brilliant, but I am much too lazy to use ELEVEN different colors of thread for my tailor tacks. What I did was use little round sticky labels and put them next to each tailor tack, on the underside of the fabric. So I made 6 labels for F, and two labels for A, for example. If they threatened to fall off, I just pinned those labels on. :)

I do recommend making a muslin, just to get it straight what you are doing. The first time (on the muslin) I blindly followed the instructions, and then I understood the basic idea so the second one was much easier. I still needed those labels, though. I have to remember not to get cocky and leave off those labels, which is exactly the kind of thing I would do. ;)

I need ten or twenty of these tops, all in black. (I apologize, in advance, for those who see me on a regular basis and will have to endure the many tops I plan to make from this pattern.) Oh, because I did cut this out at night and the light over my dining table is poor, I cut it on the crossgrain. The knit is a four-way, but it's much stretchier in the other direction. No matter, it's just fine. :)

Note to self. Buy a few boxes of sticky labels at the office supply store.