Monday, August 22, 2016

Teal Lisette Coat


I've finished my first garment using a fabric I bought in New York City, lined with another fabric I bought in NYC, and using one of the new Fall Butterick patterns released a couple weeks ago.

It's all new new new!

Teal Lisette Coat

I'm starting to realize that I need to sew faster if I want to make several more items before Munich and Paris!

So I am.

I purchased this gorgeous paisley brocade at B&J Fabrics:

I decided to make Butterick 6385, View C, a Lisette coat pattern:

Lined with the navy silk I bought at Kashi's (on top):

I purchased some vintage buttons from Britex. They were $5 each, but worth every penny!

They even coordinate with the lining! (I took this pic at night under incandescent lighting, so the colors look weird.

I started with a size 18. The pattern comes in cup sizes A to D. I used size D. I made several changes:

  • Cut the fabric across the grain (mostly) and mixed up the "nap" (direction) of the pattern pieces. I wanted to break up the giant print so it didn't look so regular and even. I didn't want to look like an upholstered sofa!
  • Lowered the Dior bust dart (typical)
  • Increased the waist by a couple of inches (typical)
  • Narrowed the shoulder by 1" (typical)
  • Shortened the sleeves by 1" (typical)
  • Added small shoulder pads. The pattern may have called for them, I can't remember. I tried it with and without and liked the jacket better with them.
  • Replaced the inseam pockets with welt pockets
  • Added inside patch pockets
  • Reinforced the back of the stand-up collar with a crescent-shaped piece of stiff interfacing and rows of top-stitching. (This is on top of the regular interfacing.) Before I did this, the collar was quite limp, even with interfacing.

Note that the armhole is high and small on this coat and the sleeve is on the slimmer side. I decided it was fine for my purposes, and I like a nice high armhole, but you might want to check it in muslin!

Welt pocket

Inside patch pocket. Picture taken at night under incandescent lighting, so the color looks weird.

Back lining. This pic also taken at night. I love the texture of the brocade!

I'm pretty happy with this coat. This is one of the nicest fabrics I've ever sewn: It presses like a dream, doesn't ravel too much, and eases like wool. It's fabulous!!!


I recently met up with Kathy and mem at the Exploratorium in San Francisco. It was like a current-and-former-Dart-writers offsite!

I was eager to see the Straandbeest exhibit. I knew about Theo Jansen, the Dutch inventor of the Straandbeest (translation: "beach animal") from various Youtube videos. These machines move via wind power, and I wanted to see one in person.

Full disclosure: the museum has a good-sized space dedicated to the Straandbeests, however it's indoors. They have demonstrations at fixed times throughout the day when you can see one of two beests in action but, since it's inside, the beests don't move under wind power. They move via compressed air stored in bottles.

It was less cool than seeing them walk a sandy beach, but it's still pretty cool!

The beests are made from narrow PVC pipe. Some of the pipes are heated and partially flattened, like those on its feet

The Exploratorium used to be located near the Palace of Fine Arts, on the northern tip of San Francisco. Several years ago it moved to Pier 15, along the Embarcadero on the eastern side of the city, and I hadn't visited since they moved. I used to take my kids there when they were little—it's a great activity on a nasty day. It was great to go with other grown-ups and play with exhibits that make science principles fun!

The other, larger Straandbeest that walks, but not when we were there.
Photo credit: mem

I would have loved to see this hamster-powered Straandbeest in action!

Make persistent wall shadows!

The "self centered mirror, where you see yourself in all 34 panes. I didn't bother taking a picture of it's cousin, the mirror where you don't see yourself in any of the 34 panes.

The upside-down-y mirror

Getting all 3 of us in the upside-down-y mirror was a challenge!

Close to the entrance of the Exploratorium is this disgusting fountain, right next to a normal fountain.

It didn't bother Kathy, who says she must be part dog

Kathy playing with their giant clock

mem playing with a hot/cold sensation exhibit

This exhibit was fun! It reminded me of the psychedelic effects popular in the 70s.

In fact, I made a video!

We had lunch at the office nearby.

View of the Ferry Building

View in the other direction of the Bay Bridge. Just look at those fabulous rooftop gardens!

I just love these planter boxes!

Thanks for a fun day, you guys!

Here are a few images you might enjoy!

The current window at Valentino. Very art deco!

The window at Chanel. I really liked the fur collar and pocket welts on the jacket on the left.

So I took a close-up. The "fur" has a texture reminiscent of a bath mat.

I loved the pocket on Kathy's jeans! Yes, I was following her trying to take a picture of her butt. ;)

I'm in Seattle for a quick work trip, but I have a second project almost completed from another B&J fabric I bought in New York. I can't wait to get back to my sewing machine!

Join me on Patti's Visible Monday!.

Have a great week!