Friday, June 11, 2010

Vogue 8397 - Marcy Tilton Pants (View A)

I've been trying so hard to put a moratorium on sewing black for spring and summer but, oh well, what the heck. I still have scads of black ponte and I love to use it to test out some of the wonderful pants patterns that are available.

Today, we have Vogue 8397, a Marcy Tilton pattern that has been out for years, since 2005, I think. This pattern offers three very different pairs of pants. I recently used View C to try out a variation that Marcy posted on her website, but this time, I made View A, which is for knits only. Because this pattern has been out for years, there are many reviews on Pattern Review, but only three for view A. Most of the sewists used a fairly drapey fabric, such as jersey, but I decided to try it out using my firmer ponte knit, though I wasn't at all sure that it would work.

According to the pattern, the finished measurement for a size 12 at the hip is 43". I decided this sounded right for me, so I cut out a size 12 from the hip down to the hem, tapering out to larger than a size 14 at the waist. (This multi-sized pattern goes to 14 at its largest size, so I made it bigger – maybe more like a 16.) I traced the Trio crotch curve onto the pattern. Other than that, I made no changes. I even used the original length for the size 12, so this pattern may run a bit short.

The pants were very quick to stitch up, even with the top-stitching. (But then I like to top-stitch.) And I love them! Love love love. Definitely another keeper.

Worn here with another new top. This is my fourth Teagarden T, made from a diagonal knit. I love this pattern too! It's "my" version of a t-shirt.

Mini Britex Report

I had to go to the financial district in San Francisco today. I rarely go to the financial district, though I very often go to the nearby shopping district (Union Square). In fact, the last time I was there was several years ago when I went to the Brazilian Consulate to get a visa. But I love the financial district. It's so... alive... with all the worker bees rushing to and fro with such intense focus. I also love to observe what they are wearing, which varies from the well dressed and well coiffed women sporting gorgeous shoes, to scruffy IT types with worn jeans and overstuffed Timbuk2 bags. It's a feast for the eyes.

The company I work for has an office in that area and I had to go in for two reasons. First, to prove I am a U.S. citizen, but also to get a new photo badge. I just got a new haircut last night and, to gird myself for the photo, I decided to wear my red Teagarden T and black ponte Trios.

It didn't help. The photo was atrocious anyway. Afterwards, it was such a gorgeous day, I walked the few blocks to Britex.

I have mentioned before how Britex can make me very grumpy, mostly because of the prices. But they have been carrying a nice selection of printed knit fabrics lately. In fact, some of the fabrics are the same that are sold by Marcy Tilton and Christine Jonson, though for much higher prices. Today, though, it was nice that at least six employees recognized the fabric from my top, which I purchased from Britex, as well as the fabric from my tote, also purchased from Britex. The employees love to see their fabrics sewn up – they really know their inventory – and they were very friendly as a result.

I did end up buying one piece. A beautiful knit mesh for (gasp) $30 per yard. See, this is why I get grumpy, but I guess it's what you should expect when buying fabric from a store directly across from Neiman Marcus, two doors from the Betsy Johnson boutique, and around the corner from Dior.

I will either use the fabric to make this Marcy Tilton tunic or this Very Easy Vogue tunic. The photos for both (especially the Very Easy Vogue) are rather unflattering, but I really do like that top. I have worn the turtleneck version so much that I need to toss it. It's become very pilled and worn, but has been a great top to throw on, both at home and when I run errands.

I have mentioned that I want to make myself jackets, especially jackets that are a bit more fitted. I am working on altering this Sandra Betzina jacket with three front darts (10 darts total). I have identified that I need to add 2" to the front, distributed between the three darts, with most of the fullness in the middle dart, but I haven't quite figured out how I will do that yet. I'm hoping to get a good fit, and that this can become a TNT pattern for me.