Technique -- Cascading Ruffle

Rachel posted a question on the Stitcher's Guild forum, asking how to recreate the flounce (or a cascading ruffle) on this $158 Anthropologie skirt.

I am reposting the information here, in case anyone finds it useful.

This is really just a run-of-the-mill circular ruffle. You need to cut a fabric donut. The inside of the donut is stitched to the edge of the skirt pattern piece.

So, the question is, how big does the donut need to be? For the best effect, you want your donut to be the correct size. Too small and you run out of ruffle. Too large and you have extra ruffle and the ruffle you do use is less "ruffly" than it could be.

What you need to do is to calculate the circumference of your inner circle to get it just right (or close enough). To calculate the circumference of your inner circle, you need to use the formula c=2*pi*r. So, if the front of your skirt (where you want the flounce to go) is 20" long, the circumference of the inner circle should be 20". So:

20 = 2 * 3.14 * r
r = 3.18"

So, for the inner circle, you need a radius of 3.18" or a diameter of 6.36". Or, to round up, you need an inner circle of about 6.5 inches. (Of course, I am not calculating seam allowance here.) Correct me if I'm wrong, but a salad plate is about 6.5 inches, isn't it? It's close enough, I'd wager. :)

I made a little demo. In my case, I grabbed a dinner plate and it made a REALLY long flounce. If I had done the math first I would have grabbed a salad plate. The outer circle represents the width of your flounce. I cut mine 4", but for that Anthropologie skirt, you'd want to cut yours wider, maybe 6" or so. You can always cut it down later if it's too wide. Mine is actually only 3.5" wide, since half an inch went into the seam allowance.

So, cut out your donut, stay stitch the edge of the inner circle, and trim the seam. Then attach. Here is my quick and dirty demo, with the flounce sewn onto a pillowcase, and I think it pretty much shows the cascades you want to achieve. It just needs more refined workmanship with better fabric.

Mrs Stylebook Summer 2009 - Top #31D

Just as I came back to sewing, I discovered Mrs Stylebook, a Japanese sewing magazine, thanks to Claudine's blog. Based on her blog and on the scans another blogger, Cidell, posted from this magazine, I. LOST. MY. MIND.

I rushed to my nearest Kinokuniya store. They had no back issues, so I contented myself with the most recent issue, which they tell me is summer 2009. This magazine has virtually no English and, unlike the European fashion sewing magazines, only a few designs have included patterns that you trace off. Most of the designs have diagrams showing you how to draft them. This suits me fine, for the most part. I am not an expert pattern drafter, but I took one year of flat pattern design 20 years ago and I can get along well enough. I typically start with a TNT (tried 'n true) pattern that has most of the features I want, and go from there. My slopers from 20 years ago no longer work and I haven't bothered to make up new ones. :)

For my first Mrs Stylebook effort, I liked the neckline detail on this top:



and here is the instructions page for that design (this is all the help you get, but it's pretty helpful):


The alterations are pretty much what you would expect: the neckline is cut down, front and back. The added neckline piece is simply a rectangle, long enough to cover the neckline and wide enough to fit the four channels for the cording, when doubled. (I cut mine about 5 1/2 inches wide and the full width of the fabric -- I cut off the excess later. My neckline was about 38" wide.) The front of the top is extended 14cm (5.5 inches) which is then be gathered back up by the four cords. (I was concerned that an additional 11" might be too much fabric for me, and it was, but I managed to fix that later.) At first I was thinking I'd use this neckline on a buttoned top, then I quickly realized that would look weird. It was no mistake that this top has no closure. :)

I started with my darted t-shirt pattern and made the changes. For my fabric, I am using a blue check fabric that I thought was cotton. I had convinced myself it was cotton because, well, it looked like a cotton check should look, to me. Even as I cut it out, trying to match the plaid, and it wiggled around horribly, I was thinking cotton. It wasn't until I sat at my sewing machine I realized that this fabric is behaving in every way like a rayon. Yup, a rayon, which means it has a lovely drape. :)

I decided I wanted to do something different for the sleeves. For one thing, I did NOT want to have to match the plaid across the sleeves, so I decided to cut them on the bias. I also decided to emulate a ruched sleeve cuff I had seen on another top. I had studied how that effect was achieved and it was more complex than I wanted to deal with, so I winged it and figured it out as I went. It worked pretty well and maybe I'll blog that technique another time. I also gave the garment a shirttail hem with side slits. I love side slits. :)

As I was sewing up the design, once again I was not liking how voluminous the top was, so I decided to sew in some relaxed darts. Two under each bust (four total) and two in the back. I also removed 4 inches in the side seam at the bust, tapered to nothing at the hem. (Frankly, I should have taken it from the hem too, but I didn't want to lose my shirttail hem with those nice slits.) The extra fullness I had added at CF to accommodate the shirred neckline needed to be tamed down. (I had worried about this when I was drafting the pattern, but it's worked out ok with my alterations.)

So here it is:


and here is the neckline detail:


and the ruched sleeves:


I need to make myself a nice blue tank to wear underneath this top. I am happy to say I have enough of this wonderful check to make a skirt. I have already started drafting that. And, no, I won't be wearing them together. ;)

Butterick 5045 - Top or "Cover Up"

I had tried on a top in a boutique that I just loved but, at over $300, was out of my current budget. I decided to copy the top and the "cover up" from this Butterick pattern is very similar in line.

1. The original top as made of a what I would call a double faced voile. It was a semi-sheer cotton but the fabric had two sides and it had a surprisingly nice drape. The front was a dark plaid and the back was solid black. I learned from the Stitcher's Guild forum that this is a Japanese fabric called "double gauze". I've trolled the internet but have only seen double gauze for sale in children's prints or solids, but, hopefully, one day it will become generally available to us sewers in grownup prints. :)

2. The original top buttoned. The right side had a large buttonhole that was pulled up to above the left breast and buttoned on a large button, forming a draped neckline. (The back of the double-faced fabric showed so it had the effect of a solid black contrast neckline.)

3. The front of the top was shorter than the back, which came almost to my knees.

Here's my version of the top, worn up (my preferred way):

and down:


I had this fabulous fabric that a friend told me reminded her of the fabric used by Babette. It's a knit, but a very unusual knit that has these wonderful permanent crinkles. I wish I bolts of this fabric in different colors. :) As it is, I have it in a microscopic black/white houndstooth which, of course, has an overall "grey" effect. Oops, another "grey" top. ;)


This pattern needed a few alterations. I cut out view B (coverup with sleeves) in an XL, which is correct for my bust measurement. I rounded the point off at the front -- this is where the buttonhole goes on the left front. I also shortened it. I cut it out of my beloved fabric, putting the front hem on the naturally rolled hem at the bottom of the fabric.

The pattern was delightfully easy to sew up. Perhaps because I love this fabric so much, I took extra care and turned under all raw edges and hand stitched them down. I hand stitched the raw edge on the front, but I left the hem raw and rolled.

As the top came together, I was disappointed with the look. I realized it was just too voluminous for me. I started playing with the fit and, in the end, I removed about 12 inches from the hip area and about 4 from the bust area. I could have removed more from the bust, but I'd already sewn in the sleeves and didn't want to disassemble it.

Also, I had cut the back too short. I was very laissez-faire when I cut the back and, oops, it was really too short. It also lacked the rolled edge of the front (I was thinking at the time that I would hem the bottom of the garment.) So I cut another strip of the rolled edge from the fabric, though I cut it in a non-rectangular shape. At the CB, the strip was maybe 6" wide, but tapered to approx 2" at the side seam. I sewed this to my back hem and got my "longer in back than front" effect. :)

On the back you can make out the seam at the bottom:


I like the finished top. Just when I got to the point where I was going to sew the buttonhole, I decided to wait. With the buttonhole I can wear the top only one way. Without the buttonhole I can wear it draped up as a top (and held closed with a pin) or down and loose as a jacket.

I found this pin in my jewelry box. I can't remember where I bought it, but it was probably at a craft or street fair and I love the whimsy of it. :)


I wish I had a lot more of this fabric, but I am content that I have a piece large enough to squeeze out a sleeveless tunic. I think it will make a good layering piece, especially with that wonderful funky pocket included in the pattern.

P.S. If you haven't clicked on the Babette link and checked out her clothing, please do! Scroll through her Fall '09 clothes, for example. Look at that skirt and top in slide 4!!! Check out that drape detail on both. Drool... Her designs make my heart sing. :D

Vogue 1056 - Tom and Linda Platt dress

Wow, I had a first today. I threw away a pattern. It was Vogue 1056, a Tom and Linda Platt pattern, with a front draped detail. I had altered the saddle shoulder seam on the pattern -- I do not have the nice broad shoulders you see on the model, but instead sport narrow, sloped shoulders (so often seen on my body type). I altered the fit through the bust and shortened it to a tunic length with a side drape. After sewing it up in a nasty cheap poly knit (it felt like scratchy cheap nylons), the fit was overall fine, except the drape detail was "off". I think it was badly drafted by Vogue.

There was nothing redeeming about the pattern, so I tossed it into the recycling. Luckily I only spent $4 on the pattern and the fabric was $1 per yard. After using the top to clean the floor, it, too, was tossed. I don't have any photos. I tried to take some but I was home alone and unable to master the complexities. (And I no longer have a dress form.)

The quest for a flattering interlocking draped top continues. (Though, to be honest, it's not a very active quest.)

I had to console myself by "harvesting" the selvedge off a rayon gabardine fabric.

I just love a good selvedge. :)

Artistry In Fashion 2009

I am very excited about the upcoming Artistry In Fashion show on Saturday, September 26th. If you live in the Bay Area, you should really make the effort to go. I haven't been in many years, but I religiously attended the first few, back in the day, and I am looking forward to returning this year. It is held at Canada College (a community college with a truly fabulous fashion department) and it benefits the scholarship program for the fashion department.



There will be a designer sale (drool), an open house for the fashion department, food. It was at Canada College that I took classes that completely changed my sewing, 20 years ago. I learned fashion history, tailoring, how to draft patterns, and make wearable art. I bonded with women who appreciated clothing, fabric, and designer details with the same passion as I. It's a truly great program and I recommend it for anyone (in the area) who wants to take their skills to the next level.

If you do come, and you see me, please say hello. :)

Self Drafted - Tube Skirt

I have two daughters, DD1 and DD2. In fact, DD1 is my usual photographer and both are my best supporters. I had some fabric left over from this project that she coveted because it was so soft. Luckily, it doesn't take much fabric to make something for her so I whipped up this little tube skirt.



I know, hardly worth a post, but I so rarely make anything for my kids these days and she does rock the skirt. :) She was rushing off to school (tests!) and then 4 hours of ballet and wasn't in the mood for photos, so I appreciate that she played along for old mom, though I'd have preferred one without the hoodie. ;)

On the sewing front, I have two skirts half completed. For the first, I am not loving the fabric made up in that skirt - it's a bit too "homespun" and I will probably save it as a summer skirt. For the other, I ran out of fabric! I am off to the store today hoping they have some more. (They had a bit more a week ago, but the bolt was getting low.) If they are completely out, I am really stumped on that one as it's a 16-gore skirt. Maybe I can make an 8- or 10-gore skirt for DD1, except it's not a style she generally wears. (And, to be honest, it's not a color I generally wear either so chalk that up for two summer skirts...) And, then I started a top with a front tucked panel and I am not too happy with how that is going. I carefully (or so I thought) sewed all these tucks and then I realized they are ever so slightly skewed and it shows. I'm trying to decide what to do about that.

Hmmm...

Slit Style Circle Skirt Revisited

Some folks were curious for more information on my slit waist circle skirt. I didn't make pattern pieces for this skirt. The fabric had a very strong grainline (it is woven from coarse threads) and the pattern pieces are rectangular so I was able to cut directly into the fabric after calculating a few measurements. I did take some notes, but when I looked for them tonight, they were nowhere to be found. Luckily, I have the skirt and a tape measure. :)

Here is a rough (VERY rough and not to scale) diagram of the skirt. For the record, I am 5'5" tall, so YMMV (your mileage may vary) if you are a different height.


And here is how I created it:

1. I cut a rectangle 66 1/2 by 17 inches. This is the piece that extends from side to side and contains the waistband.

2. Locate the precise center point of the rectangle - this is the CF/CB point. If you fold the rectangle in half the long ways, the fold is the side "seam" (it's not actually a seam, but you can think of it that way). Cut a straight line along that fold, starting at the middle, or CF/CB. If you want to make the waist the size of your exact waist, you will have to add a vertical slit (shown on the diagram). This is how my original skirt is made. If you want to make the skirt larger than your waist (because you are using elastic), you can omit the vertical slit. To calculate the length of the slit, divide your waist opening by two. So, if your waist is 30 inches, you might want to add another 10 or so inches for gathering (and so you can get in and out of the skirt). Half of 40" is 20". So, you will cut 20" across the fold, centered at the middle point. (I start at the middle, cut 10" to one edge along the fold, then return to the center point, and cut 10" in the other direction for a total of 20." This ensures that the skirt is centered on the waist.)

3. Cut your waistband. Mine was 3 1/4 inches wide (calculated using a 1/2" S/A for attaching the waistband and using 1" elastic) and I cut it extra long and trimmed it to fit as I went along. I made a four-part waistband because I wanted the elastic confined to the sides. I won't go into that detail here, but there are patterns that use this technique.

4. Attach the waistband to the slit opening. This might sound tricky, but if you've sewn a continuous placket into a cut slit on a sleeve hem, you've done this before. In this case, you just follow the process at both ends of the slit.

(If you aren't sure how to proceed, google the subject and you can find a tutorial.)

Here is a view of my skirt with the waistband attached. The puckers are caused by the elastic which has already been inserted into the waistband.


And here it is again, folded along the side "seam". You can see I channel stitched the portion of the waistband that has no elastic. I did this to give it more body. I didn't use interfacing because a) I didn't have any and b) I don't want the waistband to be particularly stiff. The channel stitching was sufficient (for me).


5. Attach any trim, if desired. This is where I attached the fabric selvedge. You can actually see that in the picture above where the rectangle is laid out flat.

6. Attach an inseam pocket, if desired. I held the skirt up to my body and decided on the pocket location. If you've ever sewn an inseam pocket into a pair of pants or a jacket, it's the same concept, except the pocket is a rectangle shape. Here is a Inseam Pocket tutorial, if you need help.

6. Cut two skirt bottom pieces. Mine were 66 1/2" (the width of the skirt) by 24". Sew one to the front and one to the back.

7. Try on the skirt. The corners of the square are most likely "dusting" the floor. Mark where you want to cut them off.

8, Take off the skirt and lay it out flat. Draw a curve on one corner to shorten it to the point you have marked. Cut off the excess fabric.

9. Use the trimmed corner piece that you cut off as a "template" and round off the remaining three corners.

10. Hem the skirt. (I folded the edge 1/4" twice and stitched by machine.) The hem is uneven by design. :)

11. Wear and enjoy. I'd love to hear your experiences if you make a skirt using these instructions.

Note, if you don't want the inseam pocket or any sort of decoration, you can make this skirt as one big square.