Sewaholic Renfrew Top

About a month ago Jillian turned me on to the Renfrew top. I saw her two Renfew tops in person and was impressed by the collar in particular. It's a cowl neck top that isn't too low cut or too revealing. I bought the pattern specifically for this cowl neckline.

To test the fit of the pattern, I used a stretchy, lightweight knit that I bought a year ago from Fashion Fabric Club but didn't really like it when it came. Because the knit is highly stretchy, I traced off the size that had 4" negative ease. That is typically how I like a stretchy knit top to fit. This meant I traced off a size 12, which seemed small, but the measurements were right.

I didn't care for the bands at the bottom of the top and the sleeve hems, so I left those off. I also did a 1.5" vertical-only FBA.

This top is a very quick sew. I am pretty happy with it, though maybe 4" negative ease is too much for me now, because the final top is a bit snug, especially in back. I think it would be ok if I wore it with shapewear, such as Spanx, but I don't own any shapewear. I have already traced out a larger size. I want to make the next one in a more stable knit, so I am going up by two sizes to a 16. (This pattern only goes to a size 16.)

Yep, too snug. Good thing I tested the pattern in a fabric I don't really care about. :)

CB Spiral Top

I bought a pattern recently based on a post by Sew Ruth. The pattern, by Center for Pattern Design, and called the CB Spiral Blouse, is based on a design by Balenciaga. It is cut on the bias and consists of a single pattern piece. This sort of design really appeals to me so I ordered it right away.

The pattern comes in a size Medium which, according to the instructions, accommodates a bust size of 36-39". Because the pattern is cut on the bias, and different fabrics behave very differently on the bias, it's hard to predict how each fabric is going to hang or how the final top may fit. You can't just measure the flat pattern with confidence that it will just work. Also, because the pattern has no shoulder or side seams, you have less leeway to fudge the final garment.

Therefore, this is a pattern you really must test out. For my test garment, I used a fabric that a friend de-stashed - it's a loosely woven, textured cotton in a sage green color that has a nice drape. It has a subtle stripe. The pewter buttons are from my stash.

Alterations and Modifications:

• The pattern has two lines where you can add or remove width to size up or down. I added 1.5" along each line, for a total of 6" of additional width.
• The top is designed to be shorter in front and longer in back. But I felt that it was too short it front, so I added 1.5" at CF, merging it to the existing hem near the side seam.
• I didn't like the fullness at the hem under the bust, so I took two generous tucks which are partially stitched down.
• The pattern is designed to be a 3/4 length sleeve which is sewn on a spiral. I cut the sleeves to be as long as possible, given the width of my fabric. When I tried on the top, I decided I really liked the uneven edge, so I preserved that shape when I hemmed the sleeves.

Conclusion:

I really like this top and plan to make it again. It would be fun to change up the neckline. I would like to achieve a non-ripply seam in the back, but am otherwise liking it very much.

Spam:

On another topic. I have been reamed, for some time now, with spam comments. Most are caught by the blogger software and end up in a spam box, but I still have to delete each one manually. A few land in the moderated page, and I also have to delete each one manually. A few slip through. I am considering disallowing anonymous comments on my blog, as the lion's share come in anonymously. I kind of hate to do that, though, so tell me what you think.

I hope you are having a lovely weekend!

More Pics

The back is designed to drape at the hemline. There are no side seams or shoulder seams.
The primary seam is a bias seam that runs diagonal on the back. Though I did not force this seam, and I pressed it well, it does pucker a bit. I'm not crazy about that effect an am not sure how I can improve it on the next one.

Sunday Musings & Puyallup (Sew Expo)

My Sunday musing are intended to a) let you know I'm still around and kicking and b) share info/resources that have my interest. (I definitely am not getting as much sewing done as I sometimes do!)

I'm still alive and kicking. In fact, I have a top almost completely sewn and, as soon as I get off the internet, I plan to finish it.

Meanwhile, the book pictured here represents one of my many work projects that is finally out the door. (If you click the image it will take you to the book listing on Amazon.) I am so glad to have it done! No worries, though, I still have loads of other projects at work to keep me very busy. (This is one way you can see my real name, though I still won't be posting my actual name on the blog. I like to keep the worlds separate, Google-wise.)

Have you ever attended Sew Expo in Puyallup, Washington? I have not yet been, but it's on my bucket list. I am always hyper aware of the event. Partly because many of my friends attend. Partly because several indie pattern companies release new patterns to coincide. Partly because there is a fashion show I am interested in (this year Marcy and Katherine Tilton are doing it with Vogue Patterns). Partly because lots of people who go pull out all the stops to make really beautiful, creative pieces and I love to drink it all up and feast on the creativity.

So, I have become rather attached to reading real live postings about the activities at Puyallup, which ends today. Here are my favorite resources this year. If I have missed any good ones, please post them in the comments section:

• Marcy Tilton's blog post on the clothing she has made for the event.
• Katherine Tilton's blog post on the clothing she has made for the event.
• Marcy's newsletter has lots of Puyallup-related excitement.
• Marcy's Post Expo post shows the clothing that her booth assistants made for the event. (Added 3/11/13.)
• Sewing Workshop (on Facebook) has posted some pics. You can see this page even if you are not a member on FB. Also, if you follow Sewing Workshop on Twitter, they are posting updates with links to Instagram. From there you can see lots of pictures. For example, maybe you have heard about the new Pearl and Onion jacket pattern from Sewing Workshop (not yet posted on their website). You can see several examples of the actual jackets on Instagram here, here, here, here and here. I also really like this outfit, especially with the knotted necklace. And this version of Ann's Cardigan is especially lovely.
• Marcy's Facebook page has some pictures of the setup at Puyallup.
• Some of my friends from Canada College are visiting Sew Expo and you can see some of their pics on the Canada College Fashion Facebook page.

Did I miss any other resources with pics from Sew Expo?

I registered!

Last, but not least, I registered for PR Weekend in San Francisco. I really look forward to meeting new folks and seeing friends at the event, where Sandra Betzina is the special guest. I believe registration is still open, if you are interested.

And now, I need to get off the computer and finish my top!

Sunday Musings

Hey gang!

I've received a few emails from folks who were wondering what is up with my silence. It's nothing bad, just low productivity. Partly because of work. Or maybe I am so busy running on the elliptical that I have less energy for sewing.

In a couple weeks I am going on my annual sewing retreat, so I have been preparing some projects for that.

I do need some new clothes. Many of my current clothes are too big (I have now lost 8" in the bust) and I'm starting to feel frumpy in my clothing. But I hate altering. Today the outfit I wore included a top that was too large, so I maneuvered the fullness around to the back and tucked it into my skirt. I didn't take my sweater off. Desperate times... ;)

Did you see that Katherine Tilton has two new patterns in the Butterick offerings that came out last week? I especially like the top, Butterick 5881:

And though I am not often drawn to dresses, I think her dress pattern (5891) has some interesting possibilities:

Katherine has more to say about both patterns on her blog.

Have you been watching the Oscars? I enjoy the spectacle of the awards season. I had high hopes for Seth MacFarlane as host but have found him to be a bit cringe-worthy. Oh well, there is still much clothing to enjoy as well as the live singing. My favorite gown was a Versace worn by Halle Berry. I love the use of stripes!

I see some serious shoulder pads!

I hope you have a great week!

Vogue 8863 - Katherine Tilton Quilted Vest

Katherine Tilton has brought us another great pattern! This asymmetric lined jacket has great style. It might be easy to overlook some of the interesting RTW details of this piece, so let me point them out:

• The neckline is particularly nice. It is "cut on" the right front at an angle so that it is on the bias. It wraps around and is sewn to the back neckline and the seam continues around to the left front. (This is why there is a collar seam on the left front but not the right front.) The collar is not interfaced and has a soft, scrunchy quality. It isn't particularly hard to sew and the fit is very nice. It's not too tight nor too tall.
• The sleeve is cut on the body and features an underarm gusset. There is a contrast, close fitting, full length, undersleeve. The undersleeve is sewn to the lining and the oversleeve is left with a raw edge.
• The asymmetric front closes with a zipper. It would be easy to hide the zipper tape on the right side but it would be exposed on the left side. For this reason, both sides of the zipper tape are covered with a length of wide ribbon and then sewn to the outside of both fronts. On the pattern envelope, it almost looks as if the decorative zipper is inset into the front, but it is not. It is laid on top and top-stitched in place.
• The pattern is drafted so that the corners of the asymmetric front hem are mitered for you.
• There is a single welt pocket on the right side of the jacket.
• The jacket is lined. This would be a non-trivial pattern to create a lining for, so it's nice that one is provided.

My friend Heather sewed this pattern last November. Originally, she tried to narrow the cut-on sleeve, (as designed it is fairly wide), but she wasn't happy with the resulting drag lines. Instead, she cut it off and converted the jacket to a vest. She told me that she gets a lot more wear out of it as a vest than she would have as a jacket. I asked Heather if she would mind if I copied her great idea. (It's not the first time that Heather has inspired me!)

As I mentioned in my last blog post, I silk screened some black lining fabric to use for the pocket welt and the zipper tape. I was inspired by Dixie's beautiful silk screened pocket.

The pocket welt, cut out and ready to interface and sew. Completed welt. Zipper ready to be attached.

Materials:

• Quilted fabric from Fabrix. This is a very malleable quilted fabric.
• Scraps of black ponte used for the armhole ribbing.
• Scraps of black lining that I silkscreened using Marcy Tilton's medium-sized Tiger Stripe screen and using Lumière paint (by Jacquard) in Pewter.
• Black fleece for the lining. A local sewing friend (hi Luanne!) was de-stashing most of her black fabrics and I ended up with a generous piece of Polarfleece-style fleece. This is a fairly thick fleece, (I don't know what brand it is), so I had to do lots of grading and trimming from the seam allowances.
• A substantial 12" separating black zipper from Fabrix.
• Black snap, size 10.

Alterations and Modifications:

I started with a size 16. (This is a new size for me.) After checking the finished pattern measurement at the bust, I did not do an FBA. (The pattern is somewhat roomy through the bust and the hemline is designed to be asymmetric, so I let it slide.)

My changes included:

• Converted it to a vest. As mentioned previously, the original pattern has cut-on sleeves with an underarm gusset. I pinned the paper pattern together and held it up against my body to determine where to cut the armhole for the vest. I was pretty fast and loose with this step - a real hot dog. I later decided that I cut the armhole too large, so I created an ad hoc "ribbing" using scraps of black ponte, to fill the armhole in a bit. I really like the result.
• Narrowed the side seam at the hip by 1/2" - for a 2" total reduction.
• Narrowed the welt on the welt pocket to 1-1/4".
• The position of the welt pocket didn't work on me. It would have landed on my bust in an unflattering location. I lowered it and moved it closer to the side seam. I also re-positioned it so the angle of the welt matched the angle of the zipper. As a result, I had to shorten the pocket pouch.
• There is a CB seam on the jacket, but it is not shaped, so I eliminated it.
• I included little pleats in the armholes at the bust level. This was the extent of any changes to accommodate my bust.
• Used my silk screened fabric (instead of ribbon) to cover the zipper tape. Narrowed it to 1-1/4" wide – another great suggestion of Heather's. The narrower proportions of the welt and the decorative zipper treatment worked better.
• I did not sew the left side of the zipper using the suggested pattern location. I knew that it was critical for the zipper location to be perfect to fit my bust, so I changed the order of construction and attached both halves of the zipper almost at the very end - just before I closed up the hem/lining.
• Added a snap to the front closure below the zipper. Without the snap, it gaped open a bit.
• The pattern is designed to be lined with a conventional lining fabric. Since I used a thick stretchy fleece, I removed the CB pleat in the lining (which tapers to nothing at the hem) and I also removed the pleat at the bottom of the hem.

Conclusion:

I've been going to the gym almost every day. I have been wearing a couple light jackets that I made previously and neither has pockets! This vest will be a welcome addition to my "to the gym" wear.

Gung Hay Fat Choy!!

More Pictures:

Zipped up Inside out. Collar closeup

Weekend Report

You are looking at pretty much the only sewing I got done today.

A welt pocket.

I silk screened the fabric in the wee hours - during a period of insomnia. I was inspired by Dixie's gorgeous welt pocket that she posted on Friday. Have you seen it?

You can read the construction details on her blog, With Needle and Brush. She has some mad creative skills, that one.

Diane Ericson has launched a new website. It's very slick. She is using the same URL as before, so any bookmarks to the high level page should still work. On her updated site, you can buy her custom designed fabrics, as well as her patterns and original artworks. Check it out! Even as I write this Diane and Marcy are at Design Outside the Lines in Santa Barbara, inspiring much creativity, I am sure.

DD2 dropped by yesterday. We spent hours discussing her senior project. (I learned a lot about Noam Chomsky in the process. I had studied his theories in college and was surprised to hear he is still alive and producing.)

The first thing she exclaimed on seeing my new hairdo is that I looked like Louise Brooks. (DD2 is a big fan of old films.) We googled Louise Brooks and there is a resemblance! (In the hair, anyway. I can't claim to have her smouldering sexiness.)

Have a great Monday!

New Look

Except for the money, prestige, lifestyle, and career, I sometimes feel a wee bit like Anna Wintour.

Or maybe the resemblance is closer to a Romulan.

I use Windows now, so maybe it feels more Romulan.

I ordered these glasses back in mid December and they arrived today. It's my first eye exam and new pair of glasses in 6 years. Or maybe 7.

It was a wee bit too long to wait - my other glasses were chipped, scratched, and missing a nose bridge. They were falling apart.

I'm not sure what I'll be sewing this weekend, but I will have the Superbowl on and I will be rooting for the 49ers. I might even kiss my biceps once or twice. (Thanks to the rowing machine at the gym, I now have biceps. They scare me a little.)

Have a good one!