Sunday, May 6, 2012

Style Arc Jilly Red Twill "Jeans"


I guess I fell prey to the spring trends! A couple weeks ago, I decided that I really needed red jeans. I must have red jeans!

I mentioned this to Margy, who immediately replied that she had some red stretch twill that wasn't her shade of red and would I be interested.

Would I? You betcha!

What arrived on my doorstep a week later was 3 yards of Italian cotton lycra twill in the yummiest color. It was even pre-washed! And gorgeous. I then had to decide which pattern to use:

  • The famous Jalie Jeans. I have made this pattern twice, once in blue denim and once in cream corduroy. I proceeded to wear the blue denim pair for 3 days and decided, pretty quickly, that I did not want to use this pattern.
  • The famous funky Au Bonheur jeans. I decided, very quickly, that though these fit me well, I wanted a more conventional pattern for my red jeans.
  • The Style Arc Jilly Jean. I've had this pattern in my stash for awhile. I decided it was time to try it out.

I wanted a skinny leg for this pair of pants. Even though the skinny jean look might be contraindicated for my figure, that's what I wanted. :)

The Jilly Jean doesn't look like a skinny jean if you look at the illustrations. Checking the few reviews on Pattern Review supported that suspicion - it has a very straight leg. I knew I would have to do some fitting at the lower leg.


A nice, rich, true red.

Alterations and Modifications:

  • I made a size 10, my usual Style Arc size. (They are SO consistent in their sizing!)
  • Cut off 3-3/4" from the hem. Style Arc designs for a much taller woman. :)
  • The leg on the pattern is very straight. I removed 1-1/8" from the inseam and the side seam at the ankle (after shortening), tapering to nothing at the knee. This removed 4-1/2" total from the ankle, resulting in the much closer fit that I wanted.
  • Widened the waist a bit. Mostly straightened out the curve on the back, front yoke, front pockets, etc.
  • This pattern comes with both a rectangular and a contoured waistband. I used the rectangular waistband, though I used a longer rectangle than they provided. I cut it on the cross grain so it would be stretchy. I then inserted elastic into the finished waistband so that these, unlike my Jalie denim jeans, will stay up.
  • Instead of using a zipper fly, I wanted a mock fly. I like the look of a fly on my jeans, but not an actual fly. Once again, I used Debbie Cook's Fly Front Tutorial, eliminating the zipper.
  • The pattern is designed with a sewn-on fly. I prefer a cut-on fly. I sewed it on, as designed, but when I make this again I will cut the fly on.
  • I didn't quite understand how to use the pattern piece that was provided for the pocket bag. Rather than try to puzzle it out, I drafted my own pocket bag and facing. I used a contrast cotton print for the pocket facing and bag.
  • Up top is the pocket bag that comes with the pattern. Below are the pocket bag and facing that I drew up.
  • I didn't bother to install rivets. I have all the rivets and tools, but I just can't be bothered.

Early top-stitching trials.
It takes practice to get a clean corner using the triple stitch. The secret (at least on my machine) is to turn the corner after the 2nd forward stitch. My machine goes forward 4 times, then backwards 2 times.

Topstitching:

My next decision was about the top-stitching. Do I use cream/white thread? Red thread? Top-stitching thread? Regular thread? Once again, it was Margy to the rescue. She mentioned the triple stitch, available on most sewing machines, as great for top-stitching. Even my ancient Bernina 930 has this stitch, though the last time I tried to use it, about a year ago, it didn't work. But now that my machine has been serviced and is running like new, I decided to try it. It worked great! What's more, you use it with regular thread, meaning I didn't need to run to the fabric store for top-stitching thread. I decided to go with matching red thread.

I had to spend some time practicing the stitch. On my machine, it goes forward 4 stitches, and then back 2, then forward 4, and back 2, and so on. I was having trouble figuring out when to turn a corner cleanly. Again, Margy had advice. What worked is to turn a corner on the second stitch, going forward. Try it!

Conclusion:

I love my red jeans!

I do wish the front rise was a scosche higher — it hits me at the fullest part of my tummy, not a great place. But of course my tops will cover that up.

I definitely want more of these! Maybe a lime green pair! Maybe a black pair. But I will wear these for awhile to determine if I need more fitting tweaks.




34 comments:

  1. I'm glad you went with the trend, they are fabulous. Curious about the elastified waistband (or am I seeing something that is not there?).

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    1. Thanks, Gail! It's a bit buried, but in the alterations list I do say that I used the rectangular waistband and inserted elastic. For them to stay up, I need firm, snug elastic!

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  2. They look FABULOUS! I'm gonna have to try that pattern. And are those
    SKULLS on your scarf? Double fabulous!

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    1. Yes, those are skulls. :) And THANKS again for the fabric!!

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  3. I vote you make a lime green pair next! Cool!

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  4. Love the red and love what you did with the pattern. Those are a real winner!

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  5. Lime green next, definitely lime green! These are gorgeous, I recently acquired some red stretch twill, I just might copy you. I just love yours.

    PS-they look fantastic on you, very slimming

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  6. Love, love, love the jeans...But wait...those SHOES! I love the shoes, too!
    helen

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  7. Oooo, I am so jealous! I've been craving a pair of brightly colored jeans. And now I know why. These look terrific on you!
    Must.Get.Going.Sewing.Pants.Truly.Must.

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  8. These look absolutely terrific, a great style and colour on you. Very very nice, I likey!
    To my mind, that pocket piece looks like it is cut to be self-faced... so the RH half folds back along the centre to become the facing for the left half, which has that hand access quarter circle cut out at top left. Hope that makes sense... but I agree with your method, I too prefer for my jeans pockets to be faced with a lightweight cotton for less bulk.

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    1. Thanks, Carolyn. Someone else posted the same tip on Stitcher's Guild. That makes so much sense and I wonder why I didn't see it!

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  9. Fantastic red jeans. Lime green is good but mustard ones would be nice too!!

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  10. I posted a comment on pattern review but these are worthy of two comments... fabulous jeans, the red is your color too. Fantastic.

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  11. Stunning jeans! And that shade of red is perfect for you (and me too ;-) ).

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  12. The red jeans are perfect on you! I love them. Bright colored jeans are so in right now and you have the perfect figure to wear them. Enjoy!

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  13. Terrific jeans! I love colored jeans, and you are so in style with them.

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  14. Ooh the red jeans suit you well!

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  15. Love your red jeans and they look great on. Also love what you paired them with. The waist looks extremely comfortable

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  16. What a great pair of jeans!! I am going to try the elastic waist on my next pair. What a great idea!!

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  17. Goodness Shams, you are always right on trend. I love all the bright colored jeans for spring/summer and your pair is perfect. I think the elastic waist is a perfect idea, since I don't tuck my shirts in anymore. Great looking pants.
    Karendee

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  18. I like what you have done with these jeans - the pattern did not suit me at all and I think the elasticated waist band is genius!

    The pocket bag is a fantastic design feature of these jeans - it saves a lot of work - if you can persevere with it, it's worth learning how to do.

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  19. I am in awe, custom designed red skinny jeans. You look wonderful in them.

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  20. Those pants are great on you! I do love red. And I covet your shoes too. ;)

    Pay no attention to the "fashion police". If the garment is comfortable and you feel good in it, then WEAR it!

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  21. Very cute and great little details on your red jeans. I love them.

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  22. I love them . I would love a red pair too . I have just started using Style Arc . They are great and made just down the road from me . My last order was hand delivered!!!!

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  23. Love your red jeans! I believe a pair are on my list now!

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  24. You look fabulous--and what an elegant waistband treatment!

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  25. Excellent outfit, Shams! I especially like how you tied the top & bottom together with the scarf containing both colors. This is a good look for you.

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  26. This was a trend that you should have jumped on because you look awesome in these pants!

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  27. I'm currently trying to make myself an orange pair of skinny jeans. Unfortunately, the orange denim I picked out has relatively no stretch in it. And, I perfected the fit on my jeans pattern with stretch denim. I couldn't even get the orange jeans up over my knees! I'm currently in salvage mode. I'm going to use your awesome red jeans as motivation to continue trying to make my orange ones work. Aren't bright denims so fun?!

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  28. I just finished a pair of purple jeans. Finding colored jeans in real woman sizes is hard. Finding colored denim, almost impossible. I found white denim, still not easy, and dyed the jeans I made. Next will be orange, lime green and aqua. Now that the pattern works (Hot Patterns Boyfriend jean, see my review on Pattern Review), I can assembly line sew. I used the triple stitch in white, which after dying gives white topstitching!

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  29. Shams, That red jeans rocks!!

    I totally get the 'skinny jeans is contraindicated for the figure but I wanted it' part. I know batman / dolman sleeves are contraindicated for busty people, but when I tried I discovered that it actually works a lot better on me. I guess they want the bust accentuated for busty people, but for uber busty people like me, the top really looked great. And I liked it - and that's what matters, so I bought a couple of those tops!! :)

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  30. Great jeans - the elastic in the waistband and the mock fly is a great idea - I have this pattern and some lovely orange twill waiting patiently for me!

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