Sunday, February 10, 2013

Vogue 8863 - Katherine Tilton Quilted Vest


Katherine Tilton has brought us another great pattern! This asymmetric lined jacket has great style. It might be easy to overlook some of the interesting RTW details of this piece, so let me point them out:

  • The neckline is particularly nice. It is "cut on" the right front at an angle so that it is on the bias. It wraps around and is sewn to the back neckline and the seam continues around to the left front. (This is why there is a collar seam on the left front but not the right front.) The collar is not interfaced and has a soft, scrunchy quality. It isn't particularly hard to sew and the fit is very nice. It's not too tight nor too tall.
  • The sleeve is cut on the body and features an underarm gusset. There is a contrast, close fitting, full length, undersleeve. The undersleeve is sewn to the lining and the oversleeve is left with a raw edge.
  • The asymmetric front closes with a zipper. It would be easy to hide the zipper tape on the right side but it would be exposed on the left side. For this reason, both sides of the zipper tape are covered with a length of wide ribbon and then sewn to the outside of both fronts. On the pattern envelope, it almost looks as if the decorative zipper is inset into the front, but it is not. It is laid on top and top-stitched in place.
  • The pattern is drafted so that the corners of the asymmetric front hem are mitered for you.
  • There is a single welt pocket on the right side of the jacket.
  • The jacket is lined. This would be a non-trivial pattern to create a lining for, so it's nice that one is provided.

My friend Heather sewed this pattern last November. Originally, she tried to narrow the cut-on sleeve, (as designed it is fairly wide), but she wasn't happy with the resulting drag lines. Instead, she cut it off and converted the jacket to a vest. She told me that she gets a lot more wear out of it as a vest than she would have as a jacket. I asked Heather if she would mind if I copied her great idea. (It's not the first time that Heather has inspired me!)

As I mentioned in my last blog post, I silk screened some black lining fabric to use for the pocket welt and the zipper tape. I was inspired by Dixie's beautiful silk screened pocket.

The pocket welt, cut out and ready to interface and sew.
Completed welt.
Zipper ready to be attached.

Materials:

  • Quilted fabric from Fabrix. This is a very malleable quilted fabric.
  • Scraps of black ponte used for the armhole ribbing.
  • Scraps of black lining that I silkscreened using Marcy Tilton's medium-sized Tiger Stripe screen and using Lumière paint (by Jacquard) in Pewter.
  • Black fleece for the lining. A local sewing friend (hi Luanne!) was de-stashing most of her black fabrics and I ended up with a generous piece of Polarfleece-style fleece. This is a fairly thick fleece, (I don't know what brand it is), so I had to do lots of grading and trimming from the seam allowances.
  • A substantial 12" separating black zipper from Fabrix.
  • Black snap, size 10.

Alterations and Modifications:

I started with a size 16. (This is a new size for me.) After checking the finished pattern measurement at the bust, I did not do an FBA. (The pattern is somewhat roomy through the bust and the hemline is designed to be asymmetric, so I let it slide.)

My changes included:

  • Converted it to a vest. As mentioned previously, the original pattern has cut-on sleeves with an underarm gusset. I pinned the paper pattern together and held it up against my body to determine where to cut the armhole for the vest. I was pretty fast and loose with this step - a real hot dog. I later decided that I cut the armhole too large, so I created an ad hoc "ribbing" using scraps of black ponte, to fill the armhole in a bit. I really like the result.
  • Narrowed the side seam at the hip by 1/2" - for a 2" total reduction.
  • Narrowed the welt on the welt pocket to 1-1/4".
  • The position of the welt pocket didn't work on me. It would have landed on my bust in an unflattering location. I lowered it and moved it closer to the side seam. I also re-positioned it so the angle of the welt matched the angle of the zipper. As a result, I had to shorten the pocket pouch.
  • There is a CB seam on the jacket, but it is not shaped, so I eliminated it.
  • I included little pleats in the armholes at the bust level. This was the extent of any changes to accommodate my bust.
  • Used my silk screened fabric (instead of ribbon) to cover the zipper tape. Narrowed it to 1-1/4" wide – another great suggestion of Heather's. The narrower proportions of the welt and the decorative zipper treatment worked better.
  • I did not sew the left side of the zipper using the suggested pattern location. I knew that it was critical for the zipper location to be perfect to fit my bust, so I changed the order of construction and attached both halves of the zipper almost at the very end - just before I closed up the hem/lining.
  • Added a snap to the front closure below the zipper. Without the snap, it gaped open a bit.
  • The pattern is designed to be lined with a conventional lining fabric. Since I used a thick stretchy fleece, I removed the CB pleat in the lining (which tapers to nothing at the hem) and I also removed the pleat at the bottom of the hem.

Conclusion:

I've been going to the gym almost every day. I have been wearing a couple light jackets that I made previously and neither has pockets! This vest will be a welcome addition to my "to the gym" wear.

Gung Hay Fat Choy!!

More Pictures:

Zipped up
Inside out.
Collar closeup

44 comments:

  1. This turned out very nicely!! Your silk-screened accents really add a lot. I have this pattern, but was unsure about the look of the narrow lower sleeve. The idea of turning it into a vest is fabulous!

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  2. The jacket is kewl but I really like the silk screened accents! I love how you incorporate these techniques into your garment.

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  3. Looks even better IRL. Good job and so good to see you again. Heather, not the inspiration Heather alack!

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    1. Thanks, Heather! I took these pics this morning and didn't see them until this evening. I was hoping they'd be better. It was great seeing you this afternoon!

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  4. Fabulous Changes...Shams AND Heather! This is very near the top of my to-do file. Vests RULE!

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  5. I've realized that I'm turning in to a vest fanatic - even though I just finished yet another vest for me, I MUST have this pattern!

    And I agree with heather, these pics are nice, but really, it's many times nicer in person!

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    1. Thanks, Jillian. I felt the same way about your vest. It looks good on your blog post, but WOWOW in person!!

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    2. Totally agree with shams - the skin vest is delicious! To both of you - it is really hard to photograph black, and you both did a wonderful job showing the details. Thanks! Now off to comment on Jilly Be's blog as well. Heather

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  6. Great vest and the screen printed accents are fabulous against the quilted fabric! Love the asymmetric front too. It looks lovely on you :)

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  7. This is a great looking vest! I like the silk screened fabric accents.

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  8. Those silk screen splashes really take this vest to a new level! Love what you did to it...J

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  9. How funny. I was looking at this pattern last night and thinking how nice it was

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  10. The vest looks warm, wearable and smart. My favourite feature is the asimetrical front and the zipper. Looks like a great pattern!

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  11. You improved every detail to work for you. It shows and looks like a fun piece that will give you tons of wear. Those MT patterns were made for you!

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  12. Great vest. Now that you have pointed out this jacket pattern, I find I really like it; I had not paid much attention to it previously.

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  13. That vest is PERFECT for you. It is so SHAMS. I do love the silk screen detail. I love what you do with the Tilton patterns.

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  14. Another wonderful interpretation of a "Tilton" pattern. It's so you, Shams. The silk screening is such a great addition. I envy you your creativity!

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  15. Beautiful! I love the screen printing.

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  16. I love your version of the pattern. I'd not seen that pattern. Might be one I need? I love the inside lining - looks warm and nice
    Marcia

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  17. A bit of make it work made this a great vest for you. I love the quilted fabric and your silk screening is a nice touch.

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  18. Wow! You and your vest look amazing. Love the silk screening.

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  19. So hip and practical at the same time! Perfect embellishment technique too. You are looking so svelte, Shams!

    Why is it the Tilton Sisters' jackets look even better as vests?

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  20. Nice job! Although I have seen that pattern, I didn't even recognize it. Like everything you do, it is so you!

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  21. Looking good, Shams -- and congrats on the new size too!

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  22. Adorable vest with the tiger stripes silkscreening. I also love you new haircut. You look very 1920-ish.

    Karendee

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  23. Your special touches make this vest to be perfectly you! Wow, good going at those gym visits. That is dedication.

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  24. Wow...that's impressive! Love your vest, and the little touches you added. Plus, it looks wonderful and fun on you! Well done!

    PS...I won't be making this one...for some reason, putting anything slightly "out there" makes me look like I had a bad encounter with a BOHO shop or raided a hippie's closet. Trust me - on me, they do not look trendy or fun...just ridiculous ;) I'll have to live vicariously through you, Shams!

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  25. Love your adaptation of this pattern. The ponte around the armholes looks great. So, of course, do the silk screened accents. I really like this on you.
    BTW, did you see Katherine's blog post about how the sleeves were supposed to be hemmed? Apparently Vogue left that part out of the instructions.

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    1. No, I didn't see that! That makes more sense.

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  26. ABSOLUTELY FABULOUS! What a creative spin on this pattern, what beautiful work...and so practical. Big yes to this project, yes to the knit around the sleeves, the silk screening, the cozy lining, see why you wear it every day. I keep imagining this in leather with knit sleeves...someday....

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  27. You are such an inspiration! So great to see this "live" in person yesterday.

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  28. Pretty swish gym gear! Which reminds me, I haven't been to gym for over a week....oops

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  29. Great vest, but is it the vest or the wearer that makes this such a show stopper? :)

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  30. Very clever conversion and zipper application - nice!

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  31. I love it! I love anything asymmetrical, and I happen to also love vests! Thank you for showing the potential of an easily overlooked pattern. I will be adding this one to my list. :)

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  32. Your version is great! I didn't like the pattern photo on the envelope but I'm quite tempted by this one now. The welts are what make it, I think. You've got a great eye.

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  33. Awesome vest! The silk-screened accents are fantastic -- so creative.

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  34. It is wonderful to know this jacket pattern can be used to make such a great vest(cause I have it too). Love the way you used the silkscreened fabric as trim.

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  35. Ditto everyone else. I especially love the changed angle of the pocket to mimic the front closure..
    You' re looking great!

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  36. that is so cool - you really brought the pattern to life. I will have to show this to my husband who has warned me not to start sewing patchwork /quilted vests. I think he was imagining something just a little different than this ;)

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  37. Cute! I really like the contrasting white details on the welts and zip plackets :)

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  38. Fabulous, Shams! I love the zipper detailing and the way the front of the collar works. And, your silk screening! What a fabulous detail. I love your style. One of these days I'll figure out my own...

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  39. Since Vogues are going on sale for $3.99 soon (instead of $4.99), I was browsing the site looking for patterns. I saw this one and how did I KNOW that you would have made this!?! :)

    It looks great on you! I'm hoping I can turn out a version that looks as cool!

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    1. lol, Mrs Smith! Not only have I made this, but I love this vest!!

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