Saturday, January 16, 2016

Seattle Recap


I recently spent several days in Seattle. I was there for work, but extended my stay to include a weekend. I love Seattle and was happy to have a couple days to check out the sights. So, I have a museum and shopping report!

And yes, this is a long, photo-filled, post!

TOC:

Counter Couture Exhibit at the Bellevue Museum

I had heard about the Counter Couture exhibit in Bellevue (near Seattle), but it closed on January 10th, so I thought it unlikely that I would be able to see it. When it turned out that I would be in Seattle on its last weekend, I was thrilled. Claire, a local sewing pal, offered to pick me up from the airport and take me to the exhibit, and then to Nancy's Sewing Basket in Seattle. Yay!

What a fascinating exhibit, featuring hippie clothing from the 60s and 70s, largely originating from Haight Ashbury. I had to wonder why a San Francisco museum (hello, de Young?) has never had a similar exhibit.

The exhibit featured handmade garments, shoes, and jewelry that was painted, embroidered, crocheted, and covered with studs. It reminded me how handwork was prized in my youth (in the 70s), when creative ideas were "out there", and colors were exuberantly expressed. Some of the displayed clothing was "every day", some was created as performance wear, and some was worn by cult members. It was fun to see the early work of many wearable artists that I recognize: Yvonne Porcella, Candace Kling, Jean Cacicedo, Laurel Burch. I especially loved the studded garments by Billy Shire.

I'll share a few of my many photos.

One of Wavy Gravy's outfits, made entirely from doilies

Crochet jacket by Jean Cacicedo. You may recall that I recently made a coat using the newly released Jean Cacicedo pattern.

A painted leather jacket. (I didn't note the maker on this one.)

A painted dress

A necklace by Laurel Burch

Embroidered jacket for Merl Saunders by Nina Jean Carisi

Chrysalis Collar Eye Necklace by Alex and Lee

Denim jacket by Billy Shire, winner of the Levi denim art contest in 1973. That center piece is a car ash tray—the lid slides back and forth. That must have been a hit at a party.

The front of the jacket features a desk bell.

Detail of Billy Shire's jacket

More work by Billy Shire

Dresses by Yvonne Porcella

Whimsical shoes by "Apple Cobbler" (Mickey McGowan)

Boots and more boots by Apple Cobbler

An entire room was dedicated to the wonderful, whimsical crochet by "100% Birgitta" (Birgitta Bjerke)


Claire's Issey Miyake Coat

I also want to mention Claire, my gracious tour guide, who was sporting a piece of wearable art herself! Claire attended Design Outside the Lines in Fall 2014, the first time that Carol Lee Shanks was Diane Ericson's guest teacher. She started this coat at the retreat, using an Issey Miyake pattern. I think she used Vogue 2182, though she tells me that she had to modify it quite a bit. She finished the coat recently, just in time for this winter. She included some wonderful details, such as gathered organza trim and contrasting boucle details.

I love it!

Thanks to the museum staff, who offered to take a pic after admiring Claire's coat

Claire recommended that we lunch at The Mediterranean Kitchen and I loved their felafel plate, which is more like a felafel salad! After lunch, we drove into Seattle, heading towards a fabric store I have been wanting to visit. On the way to the Queen Anne district, Claire wanted to show me one of the best lookout points in Seattle, just above Kerry Park.

As we approached the street above Kerry Park, we saw this:

It turns out that there had just been a shooting in the park. (Pic from this story.)

So I guess I'll have to save this sight for a future visit.

Bye bye and thank you, Claire!


Seattle Fabric Shopping

Nancy's Sewing Basket

Claire and I ended our outing with a visit to Nancy's Sewing Basket. An independent fabric store in the Queen Anne district, you may have seen their booth at Puyallup. Nancy's carries a very nicely curated selection of fabrics. Here are a few fabrics that caught my eye:

Wool
They also have a nice selection of knits and sweater knits

I didn't buy anything, but Claire found a couple beautiful Japanese cottons


Stitches

On Sunday, as I was taking a long walk from the Space Needle to Pike Place Market, I stumbled across a small independent fabric store, Stitches. A cute little store, with a mix of quilting, garment, and costume fabrics, as well as a limited selection of yarn.

I would support this little store if I lived in the area. I didn't see any fabric or yarn that I needed, but I did buy some cute gift hang tags.



pirkko

Once I arrived in the area near Pike Place Market, I wanted to check out a number of shops. One of them was pirkko, Seattle's Marimekko store. They have bolts of Marimekko fabrics in the back. Nothing tempted me, but it's good to know about another resource.


District Fabric

I've mentioned visiting District Fabric in the Fremont district here and here. This store carries a nice selection of garment fabrics and is two blocks from my Seattle office, so I generally stop by when I'm in town. However, I wasn't able to visit this trip: I worked on Monday and Tuesday, and District is closed on Monday and Tuesday.

Oh well, next time!

Have I seen all of the fabric stores in Seattle? Have I missed anything? What about great yarn stores?


Shopping Shopping

When visiting another city, I love to search out shops that sell interesting garments and accessories. Seattle did not disappoint!

All of these shops were in the area surrounding Pike Place Market, a shopping mecca.

Totokaelo

My first stop was a Margy recommendation, Totokaelo. This store sells gorgeous, high end clothing, shoes, and accessories, from designers like Issey Miyake, Dries Van Noten, and Commes des Garcon. I didn't stay long enough to see everything, but I saw an R13 cape that I keep thinking about.

This beautiful green and teal Issey Miyake bag was on sale, though still a bit out of my budget at $800.

Sandylew

For years now I've been following Sandylew's blog. This compact store carries brands like Comfy USA, Itemz, Spirit House, Transparente, Ronen Chen, and Stella Carakasi. Like most of the stores I visited, they were having a big January sale. I had a lot of fun trying things on, chatting with Sandy and her sales people, and enabling other customers. I ended up buying a bracelet and a pair of tattoo leggings, both of which will make an appearance at some point.


Maggie's Shoes

Next, I headed for Maggie's Shoes, Seattle's purveyor of Trippens and other European brands. Even though I was there well within their Sunday shopping hours, they were closed, with a suggestion to ring the bell. I rang the bell several times, and waited around, but finally had to move on.


Baby and Co

I came across Baby and Co as I was searching the internet for Seattle shopping places. This store carries interesting designers, like Rundholz (a favorite) and Kenzo. They are, very conveniently, directly across the street from Maggie's Shoes. By the time I arrived, it was nearing sunset. I'd walked for miles and was losing steam, but I still bought myself a hat, on sale, of course.

Did I miss any great clothing stores? I'd love to hear about it. :)


Chihuly Museum

I feel like I've saved the best for last! I put this last because it has nothing to do with sewing or wearables, but I've been wanting to go to the Chihuly Museum for ages. Many people seem to confuse the Chihuly Garden and Glass with the Museum of Glass in Tacoma, but they are quite different. I saw the Tacoma museum last year when attending Puyallup Sew Expo. It's a nice museum—my favorite exhibits were the glass sculptures made from children's drawings.

The Chihuly museum is located at the base of Seattle's Space Needle. Last year, I went to the top of the Space Needle and I got an aerial view of Chihuly's glass garden and the hall with massive windows. I had seen the Chihuly exhibit at the de Young Museum in 2008 and it was amazing. The Seattle museum is similar to that, but larger and more impressive.

The museum opens at 11am on Sunday and it was a perfect time to go. It just so happened that this was also during a big Seahawks vs. Cardinals game (leading up to the Superbowl), so the streets, and the museum, were deserted! What a treat to visit this museum with only a handful of other tourists! It was also a blazingly sunny weekend (really unusual at this time of year), which makes the glass glow.

Enjoy some pics!

Looking directly up at the ceiling

Looking up at the Space Needle

Who doesn't love museum gift shops? I gravitated to the children's section in the Chihuly gift shop. I was enamored with the Snooter Doots. After much dithering, I selected the Washington Cherries. Here they are, packed for the trip home.

And here they are, keeping me company in my office. They make me happy!

Finale

I wore my new Minoru every day while in Seattle. It was chilly and rained two of the four days. I love this coat! I received countless compliments on it. In fact, as I was walking along 1st Street, a group of 4 young men wearing droopy jeans, hoodies, and knit caps, passed me, going the other direction. Just as they passed, a voice emerged from the group, "Nice jacket, ma'am." It almost didn't register. I stopped, turned around and said, "THANK YOU!" One of the young men stopped, turned around, and smiled shyly.

It made my day!

In fact, I am planning on making the Minoru again for my Paris travel wardrobe.

If you've hung around this far, here are a few more pics that didn't fit up above.

Near the Chihuly Museum

Maybe it's easy to tell - I'm wearing a Marcy Tilton wide-legged pant from a long OOP pattern.

Pic taken at an outdoor grocer at Pikes Place Market. I love how the produce resembles Chihuly glass!

Saturday, January 2, 2016

Green Minoru with Wool Interlining


Hola, everyone! I hope 2016 is treating you well.

TOC:

Minoru

I just looked it up—I started sewing this jacket on December 5th! I thought I had finished on New Years Eve, but I realized that it needed a bit more stitching, so I finally finished on New Years Day. For me, that's a long time on one garment!

I think it was two Christmases ago that my youngest daughter went to a local fabric store that I like, and she chose a fabric as my Christmas gift.

A couple years back, DD1 chose this jacquard as my Christmas gift

It's a two-sided jacquard fabric (info on brocade vs jacquard fabrics) in two shades of green. It's not a particularly heavyweight fabric—one could use it for a dress...

Well, you could, but I would never wear a dress made out of this fabric. Never ever. I liked it, but it stumped me: I'm not a brocade or jacquard sort of person. It's more formal than I would generally wear. If I hadn't liked the fabric, it would have migrated into my stash, never to be seen again, but I did like it. Every so often, I'd pull it out and try to figure out how to use it. Then I'd put it away and let in marinate some more.

I finally decided to make an anorak jacket. Because the fabric is too lightweight for a coat, I plundered my stash and located an Ellen Tracy wool fabric to use as an interlining. I used Pam Erny's wet-towels-and-wool-into-the-dryer technique to preshrink the wool.

Do you know the difference between interlining and underlining? Underlining is when you cut the pattern pieces twice, once in the fashion fabric and once in the lining fabric. You put them together and treat them as one layer. Underlining generally uses a lightweight fabric and is used to improve the stability of a fabric, or the hand of a fabric, or the sheerness of a fabric, or to minimize wrinkling in the completed garment. Or all of the above. Interlining is similar, except it's generally intended to increase the warmth of the finished garment. You can interline either the outside pattern pieces OR the lining pattern pieces. For my coat, I interlined the outside pattern pieces, so it's constructed in the same way as regular underlining. Sometimes an interlining is removable, as in a removable zippered lining.

A 100% sage-green wool from Ellen Tracy. It's rather loosely woven but has a nice, fluffy loft. I preshrank it in the dryer with wet towels.

I baste the fashion fabric and interlining together using bobbin thread in weird colors—it's nice to free up some bobbins.

I spent a lot of time deciding on which pattern to use. I had purchased the Minoru pattern several years ago but, OF COURSE, I couldn't lay my hands on it. It is no longer available in paper form, so I had to buy the PDF and print off the 50-something pages. I spend a lunchtime at work, at a giant table in a conference room, taping it together.

I really hate that process. But it was worth it. (Interestingly enough, my paper copy of the pattern still hasn't shown up. Usually the missing item shows up as soon as I buy it again!)

The Minoru has the following features:

  • Raglan sleeves
  • Lining
  • An unlined hood that can be rolled up and stuffed into the collar, then zipped up
  • Elastic cuffs at the wrist that require 2" wide elastic
  • A partial elastic waist also uses 2" wide elastic
  • A front zipper
  • The coat gathers into the collar, but not directly at center front and center back. (Leaving those bits out of the gathering is a nice detail
  • An internal pocket, on the lining—this pattern has no external pockets
  • Waist shaping at the side seam
  • Lots of room at the hips

Unfortunately, the Minoru is only sized up to a 16. I typically start with an 18 for jackets/coats, so I had to trace off the 16 and spend some time altering it up. I made lots of alterations:

  • Added darts for my full bust. The jacket gathers into the collar, so it would be possible to rotate the dart into the neckline, thereby increasing the gathers, but I'm glad that I did NOT do this. Because I interlined the jacket, it was difficult enough to gather the thick fabric and would have been much more difficult had I increased the amount that needed to be gathered.
  • Increased the waist.
  • Removed many inches from the hips. Sewaholic Patterns drafts for a pear shape, which I am not.
  • This pattern has REALLY LONG sleeves. I typically have to shorten sleeves by about an inch, but these were 4 or 5 inches too long. The pattern includes a 2" elastic cuff, which I omitted. I left the sleeves long because I decided to line them to the edge with the reverse side of the jacquard, and fold them back to create contrasting cuffs.
  • The pattern has no external pockets, and only one internal pocket on the lining. I added slant, single welt pockets in addition to the internal pocket. Pockets are goooood.
    Constructing the welt pocket

    Completed pocket and zipper
  • Converted the two-piece hood (which uses a single pattern piece) to a 3-pc hood (which requires two pattern pieces). The center piece is 4" wide. Before making this change, I reduced the height of the hood. I also lined the hood with the reverse of the jacquard. I believe that she left the hood unlined because it is intended to be rolled into the collar, but I really don't care. I much prefer to have a warmer hood with both lining and interlining, even if it makes for a fatter collar. (I plan to keep the hood unfurled, anyway.)
    The hood unfurled.

    The hood furled.

Other materials used:

  • A standard 18" YKK zipper for the collar, purchased at Britex.
  • A custom, 34", double-ended zipper, with a specialty zipper pull, from ZipperStop. I'm so spoiled by double-ended zippers! I love that I can zip up my jacket, or vest, and unzip the bottom few inches to make sitting more comfortable, and create a more flattering vertical line.
  • For the lining, I used two fabrics. For the sleeves and collar, I used the same jacquard as the outside, but I used the reverse (lighter green) side. I didn't have enough for the body, so I also used a gorgeous, textured, stretch fabric, also from stash. I lined the sleeves to the very edge so that I could fold them back to create a contrasting cuff.
    Pic of lining, taken under an incandescent light after dark.

Pressing a raglan seam with my beloved, hand-made, extra-long clapper.

More construction notes:

  • Other reviewers pointed out that raw edges showed when the hood is out. Some remedied this by covering the raw edges with binding. Instead, I added another layer of collar lining, as described here.
    Look, Ma! No raw edges!
  • I topstitched using regular thread (this color was hard to match and wasn't available in topstitching thread) using a triple stitch, as described in the Minoru sew-along.
  • When I sewed the hood lining to the hood, I used the technique called "faux piping" to create a contrast edge around the hood.
  • While jackets with waist elastic look great on some women, I really hate how it makes me look like a stuffed sausage. Even if the elastic doesn't go all the way around, it tends to pull at the front in a way I find unattractive. So I left it out, though I did taper the side seam at the waist to give myself some shaping.
Camouflage!

THANKS, DD2, for the gift of a fabric that challenged me! I am very happy with my new jacket.


Snap Press

DK-93

I've been wanting a Snap Press for a long time.

So long that I'd forgotten completely about it.

This morning, a sewing pal, Karla K, pointed out that there is a good deal to be had. A really good deal. For $70, and free shipping, I bought a snap press and a set of dies for setting Snap Source prong snaps. I bought the DK-93, which you can learn more about on the Iconic Patterns blog. The good deal that Karla found is at Gold Star Tool.com.

Thanks, Karla!


Misc

Just a few things to add.

I am going to Seattle this month. It's a work trip, but I hope to sneak in a visit to see the Counter-Couture: Fashioning Identity in the American Counterculture at the Bellevue Arts Museum.


I'm going to Whistler, British Colombia, at the end of February. When I wore my new Minoru out today, it was nippy at 42° F. I looked up the weather in Whistler at noon today, and it was 18° F, with a projected high of 28°.

Oh my.

If this is indicative of the weather in February, I am not prepared! I would rather not buy or make gear for that kind of weather, given that I will only be there for a couple of days, and I won't be skiing.

'Tis a challenge, I tell you!


Last night I had dinner with my daughters. DD1 is returning to university soon. (DD2 is taking the year off, working, and earning money. Next year she is planning to attend university in Canada.) We went to Burma SuperStar in the Richmond district. I've eaten here before, though ever since the place has been profiled on various foodie shows on television, the insanely long lines are a bit off-putting. But last night I tried the Fermented Tea Leaf Salad.

Oh My Goodness.

I might have to try making it (or here). If you google this salad, you will find recipes, kits, reviews. Yes, it's a Thing.

At dinner, my daughters gave me my final Christmas present. Custom mouse pads! I love them! One for home, one for my Mountain View office, and one for my San Francisco office. I'm a sucker for this sort of thing. ;)