Another Holiday Gift Idea

In early November, I blogged about those cool measuring tools by SA Curve Ruler. My friend Sue decided to order two sets of these tools - one for herself and one for another sewer. She bought this set and then she added another great gift, a neck lamp.

She found this lamp at Costco (in the office supply section), but it's also fairly inexpensive on Amazon: Twist-A-Lite Handsfree Flexible Neck Reading Book LED Light. She kindly gifted me with an extra one she had and it is so perfect. It will also be great if the power goes out and one has to use the bathroom. ;) My clever friend Heather puts one on her dog's neck when he had to go out in the dark.

Well, let me say that this entire gift was very popular! Much admired and coveted.

Here's another thought for you. I do a lot of hand sewing. A lot. I am fairly finicky about my needles. Margy asked me the other day what kind I use, and I thought maybe others might be interested. I like my needles to be slim and sharp, but not too short or too long. I like the eyes to be on the long side, but not fat.

What can I say, size matters.

I think that some people who hate hand sewing have maybe never used a good needle.

Maybe. ;)

I use a needle for a long time. It often develops a bit of a curve, but I like the personality.

Anyway, I really like John James needles, which are made in England. Those English tailors require good tools.

Here are some on Amazon: John James Professional Needle Collection-100/Pkg.

I am sure that Clover needles are also good (I love Clover pins and other tools) but I haven't used those. Are there any other needle brands you can recommend?

Badass on the Outside, Party on the Inside - Style Arc Ziggi Moto

It's finished!

Actually, I finished the jacket, after a marathon of sewing, on Sunday around 1:30pm. I was planning to wear it to an event Sunday evening, but then I put it on and I'd sewn the sleeve linings in (by hand) so that they were twisted.

Oh well! I finished fixing the sleeve linings last night.

This is a beautifully drafted pattern.

I did have to make numerous alterations, as this was the first time I purchased a Style Arc for my upper body since losing weight. I ordered a size 10, based on my high bust, and it was too small through the bust (expected), large through the hips (expected), and narrow through the back (not expected). I had to do quite a few alterations in quite a few places, including the seams through the upper back, the collar, the front princess seams. I narrowed the shoulder by about 1" (typical), but I did not shorten the sleeves (atypical). I had to slightly widen the upper sleeve (typical). Next time I might order a size 12 - it depends on the garment.

I especially like the back peplum.

I quilted the shoulder yokes and the upper sleeves. It's extra work, but the effect is really nice. (Though the effect is muted against the textured fabric.)

I lined it with a wild print.

The resulting jackets fits and is comfy. I like it!

Related posts:

• Tutorial - Exposed Zipper Near-Seam Pockets
• Tutorial - Sleeve Hem with Zipper and Gusset

Christmas Gift for a Sewist

Yes, that bow is made from a flexible plastic tape measure. :)

I actually made this project several weeks ago, but I couldn't post it until the gift exchange was complete. I made a gift for a sewist, though I wasn't sure which sewist it would go to.

After much cogitating, I found this pattern by CurryBungalow for a thread catcher, to keep by your sewing machine. It also includes a detachable pincushion.

Cute, isn't it?

I haven't been to FabMo in maybe a year, but I have loads of fabric samples from FabMo (a place that rescues supplies that would otherwise be dumped) and I always love an opportunity to use them. I have used them for making zippered pouches, tote bags, and my Koos bag, to name a few things. (You can see all the posts I've tagged with "FabMo" here.)

I decided to make two, since I could use one of these as well. (In fact, I could use two - one for the sewing machine and one for the serger station, but that will have to wait for another day.) As I dived into my bags of FabMo samples, I decided to focus on blue, as that is a color that appeals to many. The dimensions of my bags are slightly smaller than the pattern calls for (maybe half an inch in each dimension) and slightly different from each other. With the sample fabrics, you have to work with what you have and I used every inch of that lining fabric.

The pattern calls for quilting cottons and I used two kinds of fabrics. Mostly I used tapestry home dec fabrics which are much thicker than a quilting cotton, but they worked. The solid blue fabrics came from a jeans sample - several chopped off jeans legs, maybe 18" in length, were stapled together and suspended from a cardboard "hang tag". These samples demonstrated different washes/distressed finishes that were available from the vendor. The distressed fabrics were very soft. I used the denim as the trim on the bag, and to connect the bag to the weight.

I made some changes to the pattern. For the flat weight that stabilizes the thread catcher, the pattern calls for a "subway tile". When I went to the big box home dec store (my local indie hardware store did not carry these tiles), I found that the subway tiles were not heavy enough. I hunted up and down the aisles and I found some heavy steel plates. These things are much heavier than a subway tile and each one cost less than $2.

I cut a piece of non adhesive shelf liner and glued it to the bottom of the covered weight. Because of this, coupled with the heft of the plate, it doesn't slide at all.

Because the plate is square, I made the pincushion in a square shape.

The pincushion is filled with ground walnut shells.

I also bought some flower shaped head pins to decorate the pincushion.

The gift I brought home is also hand made: a beautiful smock-style apron, with lots of pockets:

Front
Back
Kathleen, my friend who made this apron, used a pattern called My Neighbor's Apron.

Tutorial - Sleeve Hem with Zipper and Gusset

This is another tutorial inspired by the Style Arc Ziggi jacket. Previously, I wrote a tutorial on how to create the exposed zipper pockets.

The Ziggi, as with many moto jackets, features zippers at the sleeve hems. The sleeves are 2-piece sleeves and the zipper is placed in the back seam. These instructions would work with any similar jacket.

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Note: Before you begin, make sure that you have checked the sleeve length and made any alterations to the pattern that are needed. It would be difficult, if not impossible, to lengthen or shorten the sleeve after the zippers are inserted. I should add that the Ziggi, like most Style Arc patterns, features a slim fit through the upper arm. You should also check the fit through the upper arm before cutting out your pattern.

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The Ziggi jacket does not call for a gusset in the zipper opening, but I decided to add a zipper gusset. It's an easy alteration. The pattern calls for 6" zippers, but the notches on the sleeves indicate a shorter zipper. I used 5" YKK zippers.

No pattern is provided for the zipper facing, but it is extremely easy to create.

As you can see, the length of the zipper's teeth is 5", however, when the zipper pull is pointed down, the length from the top of the zipper to the tip of the pull is 5-1/2". Because I do not want the zipper pull to hang below the sleeve hem, I will make the "window" for the zipper at 5-1/2" long.
The zipper window is created on the under sleeve, but here I have chalked the lines for the zipper window on a scrap of lining. (The dimensions of the lining scrap aren't essential, as the excess is later cut off.) The sleeve hem is 1-1/2" wide, so the 5-1/2" window starts at 1-1/2" above the bottom of the fabric. The width of the window is 1/2" plus 3/8" (the seam allowance), or 7/8" wide.
Pin the chalked lining piece to the right side of the Under Sleeve (*14) at the back seam. Stitch the seam using a short stitch.
Trim the seam allowance to approx 3/8". From the raw edge, clip at a diagonal, right to the corner.
Turn the facing to the inside of the fabric. Baste close to the fold.
The back side.
Pin the Under Sleeve (#14) to the Top Sleeve (#12 which has been previously joined to #13) at the back seam. Stitch. Press seam allowance open, and then towards the under sleeve.
The zipper window is now ready for the zipper.
Position the zipper in the center of the window, with the top of the zipper at the top of the window. Pin in place.
Using the zipper foot, topstitch along the full length of the seam. Then go back and topstitch along the remaining two edges of the zipper window. This secures the zipper in place. In the pic above, the zipper on the right has been topstitched in place. Remove the basting thread.
Both zippers are topstitched in place.
The back. The excess lining fabric has not yet been trimmed away.
Draft the gusset, if you want to use a gusset. It doesn't have to be precise - any excess can be trimmed later. For this gusset, the top is about 1-1/4" across. The length is about 7", which includes a 1" hem. The base of the gusset is about 4" across.
Cut 2 gusset pieces out of a scrap of lining fabric. I didn't want the polka dots to show on the outside when the zipper was unzipped, so I am used the back side of the polka dot lining fabric, which is solid black and slightly crinkled.
Hem the gussets.
Unzip the zipper. Position the gusset on the back of the sleeve, right side of gusset against the wrong side of the sleeve. (When the zipper is unzipped you should see the right side of the gusset.) Align the hem edge of the gusset with the end of the zipper's teeth. Pin the gusset to the seam allowance. (This is easiest when you have a seam allowance larger than 3/8".)
Flip the seam allowance over (I then move the pins to this side) and stitch the gusset to the seam allowance, as close as possible to the original line of stitching, and using a zipper foot. Then, pin the remaining side of the gusset to the seam allowance of the other side of the zipper and, once again, stitch as close to the stitching line as possible. (The picture shows stitching the second side of the gusset. There is a bit of excess gusset fabric, but that is fine.)
The gusset is now secured.
Back side of the gusset. Note the extra fabric - that can be trimmed away if it bothers you.
Back side of the gusset when the zipper is closed.
Next, stitch the other seam between the under sleeve and top sleeve, forming the sleeve tube. (No pic.)
Pin up the 1-1/2" hem. Topstitch, beginning and ending at the zipper. (I top-stitched at 1".) This completes the sleeve.
Closed zippers. Note that the zipper pull does not hang below the sleeve hem, as designed.
When these pics were taken, I had not yet lined the sleeves on the Ziggi jacket, so I am showing the sleeve from my Kwik Sew Moto Jacket. For this jacket, I created the zipper opening so that the end of the zipper teeth line up with the sleeve hem. This causes the zipper pull to hang below the sleeve hem when the zipper is closed. You have to decide which effect you prefer.
When lining the sleeve, hand sew the lining around the zipper opening, keeping the gusset free.

Baby, It's Cold Outside!

Thanks, everyone, for your kind wishes on my new job! I have been wrapping things up at my current job - I will miss the work and the people - but I am eager to get started at the new company.

So, have you heard about the SWANT?

I heard about it some time ago - it stands for SWeater PANT. Hey, JEGGINGS started this way, too. (Jean lEGGINGS.)

Anyway, people have been pinning (on Pinterest) instructions for refashioning a sweater into swants. And these two enterprising non-sewers have given it a try. They posted a video of their results.

You must check this out. :)

And on the subject of cold weather, I have broken out one of my favorite makes, from last Christmas, my flannel lined Style Arc Cassie pants. Ahhh, so warm and snuggly. I wore them last night for the 2013 Bernal Heights Holiday Evening Stroll.

Also, Margy has turned me on to another delightful cozy-warm product. I had heard about these, but it was her enthusiastic recommendation that opened my pocketbook: K. Bell Fleece Lined Legging.

Omigosh! I bought three pair and they are sooo nice. Smooth on the outside and fleecy on the inside. They do not make you look bulky. (After reading reviews, I did size up, btw.) I am planning to make more skirts to wear to work, and I will be enjoying these underneath. Thanks, Margy!

Finally, since this post has a cold theme, I also found the following video on Facebook: how to heat your room for a few cents a day. A very neat idea.

Stay warm, folks in the northern hemisphere! If you make any swants, please send me pics! (Stay cool, southern-hemisphere friends!)

Big News (for me), Not so Big News (for you)

Hey, gang!

First, I want to ask you something.

Have you ever found an out of print (OOP) or vintage pattern for sale online, perhaps on Ebay or Etsy, that you really liked?

And maybe you visited it every so often.

But you didn't buy it, because it was too expensive, or the wrong size.

Or maybe both?

And maybe you kept visiting it?

For months and months?

And maybe, one day, you couldn't find it?

Because you didn't "like" it, or bookmark it, or put a "watch" on it.

Maybe?

And maybe it was so long since you visited the page, that your browser history was no help at all?

So you went through many searches and scrolled through dozens and dozens of pages, looking for it?

And you wondered if it went to a good home?

And then you wondered how you felt about that?

Did you have any regrets?

And then maybe, just maybe, you did find it. And it was still available?

Yeah, me neither. :)

 

You'd have to have a heart of stone not to appreciate that inseam pocket...

So, for the big-news (for me), but the not-so-big-news (for you)....

In a little over one week, I am starting a new job!

It has been an honor and a privilege to contribute to the advancement, in some small way, of the Java programming language, but it's time to move on. I am very excited about my new venture. I will be documenting a new-to-me language.

What is the name of this new language, you ask?

Well, it's called.... (WAIT FOR IT) ....

DART

Seriously, how perfect is that?!?!?

I already envision making FBA jokes that, of course, my colleagues will not appreciate.

If you look at the wikipedia entry for the Dart programming language, you will know which company I am going to work for.

I am beyond psyched. I can't wait to tackle this new adventure!

It also means that I need a new work wardrobe.

Yes, dress is casual at work, but I will do my own thing.

I always do. :)

It also means that I will have less time to sew.

But that's ok. I'm not turning my back on sewing.

Or blogging.

I just may be a bit less prolific.

And life moves on.

I hope you can wish me luck!

Tutorial - Exposed Zipper Near-Seam Pockets

The Ziggi jacket from Style Arc features two exposed zipper pockets. These pockets are not positioned exactly in the center of the princess seams, but are right up against the princess seams. (This is why I call these "Near-Seam" Pockets, rather than "In-Seam" Pockets.)

The instructions that come with the pattern don't exactly tell you how to create these pockets. Or maybe they do, but I am a visual person and the written steps are difficult for me to parse. I tried, but could not understand them.

Luckily, I know how to sew. ;)

So, I decided to make a little tutorial, thinking that others might find it useful. These are great pockets and could be easily added to any jacket. They could be vertical, or angled. While my photo-tutorial outlines how to make these pockets for the Ziggi, these steps could easily apply to other patterns.

(Note: sorry, in advance, about the dark-ish pictures. When sewing on a dark fabric, with dark zippers, often in the dark, or on a dark day... Well, you know.)

The pattern calls for 6" (14cm) pocket zippers but, when I measured the notches on the pattern, they were a bit over 4". I purchased four 5" metal YKK zippers from Britex - the other two are for the sleeves. You can use a different length zipper, just adjust the window opening and the Pocket Bag/Pocket Facing pieces accordingly.

The pocket window is actually created on the Side Front (pattern piece #4). You need to create a three-sided window opening. (The fourth side happens when the Side Front is sewn to the Middle Front, #3.)

To create the window, you need a facing. There is no pattern piece included for the facing, but it is very easy to create. You could create the window directly onto a piece of lining fabric, but I am showing how to create it first on a piece of paper.

Lay the translucent paper over the Side Front, where the zipper will go. Trace off the side seam, which has very slight shaping in the Ziggi, with the 3/8" seam allowance. (Obviously, in the Big 4 patterns, you'd use a 5/8" seam allowance.)
Decide how wide and long you want the "window" to be. My zipper is 5" long, so I want the window to be 5" long. I want some of the zipper tape to show, so I want the "window" to be 1/2" wide. Add 1/2" to the 3/8" seam allowance. Draw the stitching line 7/8" from the fabric edge.
Replicate the stitching lines of the window on scraps of lining fabric. Use whatever marking method you prefer. I prefer the Clover Chaco Liner.
Pin the facing to the right side of the Side Front(s), #4. Stitch along the stitching line with a short stitch.
Trim the fabric away from the inside of the window, leaving about 1/4". Clip to the two corners, right to the corner.
Turn the facing to the wrong side. Baste in place. This pic shows the wrong side of the Side Front.
The Side Front, #4 (shown on the bottom), is now ready to be sewn to the Middle Front, #3 (shown on top).
Side Front (4) and Middle Front (3) pinned together and ready to sew.
The completed window.
The completed window, from the back side. The excess facing will be cut away.
Pin the zipper in place, making sure that it is centered in the window.
Topstitch, using your zipper foot. First topstitch the seam, then go back and topstitch the remaining three sides around the zipper, securing it in place.
The back side, before the excess facing is cut off.
Because I used a longer zipper than was marked on the pattern, I cut the Pocket Bag (#23), and Pocket Facing (#11), pieces to be a bit wider. You can always cut off the excess, so don't stress about this measurement too much, so long as it's wide enough.
Sew the Pocket Bags (23) to the Pocket Facings (11). Note that this step is easier in a garment with 5/8" seam allowances, but it is possible with a 3/8" seam allowance.

I don't have pics for the next couple of steps, but you sew the pockets to the seam allowances of the jacket, so that they are positioned properly. Make sure that the pocket is pointing towards center front. Then stitch around the pocket bags. The pocket bags don't line up completely. Again, don't stress over this. After stitching around the pocket bag, just trim off the extra width.

Voilà! Your beautiful pockets are done!

(And thanks, everyone, for your lovely comments on my Burda coat!)