Saturday, January 1, 2011

More Info on Needle Felting

First, Happy New Year to all!! (And Happy Birthday to my former Father-in-law, one of the greatest guys ever born.)

I've toyed with the idea of a "2010 recap" sort of post, but, so far, haven't been motivated. If you want to see one, let me know. If you are grateful I didn't do one, let me know. I'm curious. :)

Thanks so much for all your kind compliments on my most recent project, my jacket with the needle felted polka dots. I really appreciate the comments more than you know! At one point during this project I was hating it and thinking it was ugly chicken pox. :)

This is a very word heavy post, so here's a table of contents, to aid your navigation, though, of course, you will want to read every single word as if it's descended from heaven. ;)

The needle felting technique I used on this piece has garnered a some interest on Stitcher's Guild, so I thought I'd talk a bit more about the process. Note that at the end of this post, I've included some videos to introduce you to various techniques.

First, there was some confusion that what I did involved getting my hands wet. Nope. There are two forms of felting: wet felting and dry felting. And let me stop right here and say something that most true felters will appreciate. Felting is when you take wool in fiber form and "felt" it together. When you take wool yardage, or a wool sweater (or something knitted/crocheted) and toss it into the washer, or even in the sink, that is not felting. That is called fulling the fabric. Felters become a little annoyed when we call that process felting because, I think, it demeans their art form. I often call it felting too, but I try to be more sensitive, especially when true felters are in the vicinity, and I do know a couple. I'm just sayin'. :)

A word about vendors. I purchase my supplies from Living Felts, but there are many excellent suppliers – these days felting supplies are widely available. I found this particular vendor through Ravelry. There is a needle felting forum on Ravelry, so I went there to see where people like to buy their supplies and this vendor was prominently featured. I'm a true believer in short cuts when it comes to this sort of research. :) I am not affiliated with Living Felts in any way, other than I got excellent service when I called and asked questions and my order came nice and fast and their wool batts are *gorgeous* colors and I was very happy with their needles.

Wet Felting

First I will talk a bit about wet felting, which I have dabbled with. But if you aren't interested, go to the Dry Felting section.

Wet felting, as the name suggests, involves hot water. Added with a little soap and agitation, you can make the wool fibers stick together. Within the wet felting world, there are several techniques, such as Nuno felting (where you felt wool fibers onto a silk base), but there are other sorts of wet felting, such as felting over another object, or felting with other sorts of resist (such as bubble wrap, and using sushi mats) to create purses, hats, slippers, all manners of wonderfulness.

I used to do wet felting when my kids were little and attended a Waldorf school (where felting is very popular and routinely taught to the children). I would use a bowl of hot water, with a few drops of soap, and wool roving to create pieces, such as Easter eggs. These were formed over plastic eggs. Later, when the "eggs" were dry, I would cut them open in a zigzag shape to remove the egg. I would then tuck in a little chick sewn from fulled sweater knit, so that it was peeping out of the egg. Sadly, I have no pictures of my work, but this is a very popular Waldorf item for little kids. I even taught a one-off class on this at San Francisco State, where I was taking classes for a Master's Degree in Fashion. A program I was not able to complete, sadly, and has now been discontinued. But I digress. :)

After playing with wet felting for awhile, I gave it up for a couple reasons. One, I was not that good at it. I am not artistic in that way. This sort of felting is great for those folks who can sculpt things out of clay, for example, but that is not me. The second, more compelling reason is that it caused a flare up of my tendinitis. I developed severe tendinitis after the birth of my first child and my hand has never been as strong since then. Wet felting caused too much stress on my wrist and the tendinitis came back. So that was that.

Meanwhile, my friend Renee taught herself to Nuno felt, where you use a base of silk and add wool fibers to that. That is a very wet process and I've never tried it, but I have two of her beautiful scarves that she has gifted me. I can imagine that this makes a giant mess on one's kitchen table, so I appreciate the scarves even more for the love and care (and mess) that went into them.

You can see that this process requires an artistic eye and the more trained/developed that eye, the nicer the result. I don't have that kind of eye. :) I'm not complaining, mind you, there are different types of creativity, and I have some, but it's a different kind. I used to think I could develop my creativity, and I took painting classes, but the classes made me want to throw things, and not in a good way, and I decided I didn't need that kind of frustration. :)

But enough about wet felting. There are youtube videos which show more about various wet felting techniques and I've linked to a couple in the videos section.

Dry Felting

In dry felting, you don't have water to encourage the wool fibers to stick together, so you use a barbed needle. The barbs on a felting needle are very tiny and point down. When you press the needle into the wool, the hooks catch the fiber and cause it to felt together, but when you pull the needle back out, it comes out smoothly because the barbs aren't engaged. You can gently stroke a felting needles in both directions and you will find it's smooth going down, and a bit like sandpaper going up.

The end of a felting needle is very sharp, so water your fingers. I'm just sayin'. :)

There are three ways (that I am aware of) that you can deploy your needles. First, you can use a single needle, which is what I used on my coat project. This is the slowest approach, but gives you great control. Or, you can get a handled tool that will hold several needles. This tool makes your work go faster but gives you less ability for fine detail work.

I considered getting a handled tool for my project but I spoke to the folks at Living Felt and I explained my project and they pointed out that the handled tools have a diameter of at least 1/2", maybe more, depending. That would be difficult to maneuver in a 1" cookie cutter. I stuck with the single needle, but it occurred to me, as I needle felted 37 circles in one day, that I could have used the single needle inside the cookie cutter, but I could have switched to the handled tool once it was removed. This would have saved me a lot of time. Of course the fine folks at Living Felt didn't know I was planning to make so many circles, so I don't fault them for their advice. :)

If you get into needle felting, or need to do large areas of needle felting, you might want to consider buying a machine. These machines look like a sewing machine, but just hold several needles (from 5 to 12 needles, depending on the brand/model of machine). Where the bobbin would be is a hold that collects lint. These machines are cool and I admit I covet one, but I don't think I will really felt enough to warrant one and I have no place to put one anyway. But I spent some time watching them on youtube and they are impressive. You can also use them to texturize fabric. Drool... I have some youtube videos below for your elucidation.

Many people free form their needle felting, and that is perfect for folks who can do sculptural sort of work. Again, not me. For this sort of felting, you are holding the wool in one hand and stabbing at it with the other hand. (Though a foam pad is still used at some points.) I imagine these folks have poked their fingers many times. :) This is the technique that yields gorgeous, intricate animals, elves, mushrooms, and the like. Again, real pieces of art. Or maybe a few pumpkins. I have never tried this technique, but could probably manage a pumpkin or two. :)

Needle Felting onto Fabric

If you want to needle felt onto fabric, you need something to felt against. Something that won't felt with the wool, so that it can be removed. Most people use thick foam for this. If you've recently bought a large appliance, maybe it came with some foam. You can buy foam specifically for this purpose. Some people also use a stiff nylon brush, with the brush fibers sticking up. I haven't tried this.

You can needle felt onto all sorts of fabric. Wool is a natural choice, but denim or other heavy cotton works well too. Just do a sample first.

Videos

All that is left is a demo. Unfortunately, my technical skills don't extend to making/editing videos, so I can't make my own youtube video for you. I have found some on youtube, and while not perfect, they will give you a general idea of the technique. So, without further ado, here are a few links to get you started. There are lots more to be found!

Needle felting onto fabric:

Dry needle felting to make a pumpkin:

Wet felting over a bar of soap (I used to do this!):

An example of Nuno (wet) felting:

A machine felting video - this shows a Janome:

Here is Nancy, of Nancy Notions, demonstrating a machine:

Oooh, I'm wanting a machine again. Time to get off the computer. :) I hope you found this useful. I'm off to Stone Mountain to buy supplies for my next jacket. I'm stoked they are open on New Years Day! :D

Friday, December 31, 2010

Au Bonheur des Petites Mains - Coat with Round Collar (10011)

Let the Year of Twelve Coats and Jackets Commence!

#1: Au Bonheur Coat with Round Collar and Needle Felted Embellishment
More pics here

I was excited about this coat when it came out a couple months ago. I was doing an Au Bonheur order for some friends at the time, so I took the opportunity to buy a couple for myself and this was one of them. I especially liked the princess seams and silhouette of this coat, but the circle embellishment also gave me ideas.

This multi-sized pattern contains sizes 36 to 46. Size 46 is about 6 inches too small for my bust, so I did a whopping 3" princess seam FBA. I made no other changes and sewed it up using another castoff floral curtain from my daughter's room.

I was happily surprised that it fit quite well with no other alterations. It was a bit long in the sleeve, which is typical for me. But this pattern is beautifully drafted, even if the instructions are in French, skimpy, and rather vague where clarity is most desired.

For the fabric, I ordered some wool-blend boucle from Fabric Mart. I was surprised to see that this fabric is very similar to the boiled wool I won in Sandra Betzina's contest last month. It's a fine wool knit that has been fulled - it is technically a knit, but a very stable knit. And, just like the fabric from the contest, it has a wonderful drape. This fabric was a joy to work with and you might want to buy some before it's all gone. :)

To pre-treat the wool, I used the pre-shrinking technique that Pam features on her blog, Off the Cuff. Basically, I threw both boucle fabrics into the dryer with a large wet towel. It's best to use an older towel that has minimal lint because you don't want the lint to become embedded in your wool. I dried it for 40 minutes. A great, easy technique, and you should check out her blog for more information.

Materials:

  • Wool-blend boucle (60% wool 40% rayon) in burnt sienna and black from FabricMart
  • black fusible interfacing from Fabrix for the buttonhole placket and facings
  • Merino Cross Felting Batts from Living Felt Felting Supplies
  • Felting needles - size 38 - and foam, also from Living Felt
  • Set of circle cookie cutters in graduated sizes (from ebay)
  • Black embroidery floss
  • Black 30mm sew-in snaps

Needle Felting

After the coat was constructed, I needle felted the circles using cookie cutters as templates. The original pattern used sewn felt circles but I was happy to find an excuse for needle felting. If you go to youtube and search for "needle felting cookie cutter" you will find examples of the technique.

Needle felting supplies

Auditioning the wool batting

In progress. The needle felting took me one full day. Sewing the circles on took me most of another day.

I used the two smallest cookie cutters as templates and 11 different colors of batting. I felted circles onto scraps of black boucle and then trimmed them with either a round or a square border and affixed them to the coat using a combination of the running stitch and the back stitch. In the end, I made 32 circles in the two sizes. This part of the construction is left up to you. The pattern directions are "Customiser le bas du manteau selon vos envies" or "Customize the bottom of the coat according to your wishes."

Felting inside the cookie cutter

Finishing the felting without the cookie cutter.

The back side. The fuzz on the back gave the piece some dimensionality when I sewed it to the coat.

When it came to the button treatment, I originally planned to buy buttons from Britex. In the end I decided to use needle felted circles as faux buttons. I had plastic rings in several sizes (the cookie cutters were too large) and I made several samples. Once I found the right size, I made up five "faux buttons." The coat is closed with 4 30mm black snaps that I secured with 3 strands of black embroidery floss.

Working on the faux buttons, which are smaller than the appliques

Other Construction Notes

  • In the process of translating the instructions, I added a couple more phrases to the French sewing glossary.
  • This pattern has no pockets. I added in-seam pockets.
  • The coat is unlined. I spent time debating whether to line it, but the fabric reminded me so much of a sweater knit, with its wonderful drape, I decided to maintain the feeling of a sweater coat and left it unlined.
  • Because this is a fulled wool, the edges can be left raw. The hem and the collar have raw edges. The black contrast was laid underneath the brown wool and held together with a running stitch. I sewed it once with matching thread and then again with 3 strands of contrasting black embroidery thread for a decorative effect.

    Closeup of the contrast embroidery

  • I also used 3 strands of the black embroidery floss to sew on the giant snaps. I took pains to make the stitches as even as possible.
More pics!

Here's to an excellent 2011 for each of you! Stay safe, warm, dry and healthy. :)

Thursday, December 23, 2010

Merry Christmas!

My sewing productivity has really suffered the last week or so. I've started a muslin for a coat, but have spent most my recent evenings cleaning house, wrapping gifts, organizing, and making a necklace or two.

I hope each of you who celebrates gets to spend the time doing whatever you like best. :)

Saturday, December 18, 2010

Holiday Luncheon, Year of a Dozen Jackets, and More!

Too much of a good thing? Nah. ;)

Hot off the presses... or what I wore to the ASG holiday lunch:

  • Santa Hat with double points. Ravelry link and blog post.
  • My latest Teagarden T. I think this is #8. This time I used Lipstick Red Ponte from FabricMart (no longer available).
  • Another skirt inspired by RTW. This one is made from a plaid cotton homespun fabric from Fabrix. I trimmed the bottom of the skirt with the beautiful selvedge and I frayed the bottom of the yoke. This fabric loves to fray, but since the design details are mostly lost in the plaid, I'm not sure it was worth the effort. :)
  • A felted balls necklace (worn quadrupled as a bracelet) in holiday colors.

Hari Scarf

I also finished another scarf. I just loved the "Stegosaurus points" on this Hari pattern. In fact, I was a bit sad when I blocked the scarf and they mostly flattened out. I followed the instructions in the pattern to bring them back, though they weren't quite as prominent as before. This superwash wool is so soft and the design is wonderfully funky. I will enjoy wearing it this winter.

Pre blocking

Post blocking

What's Next? A Year of Jackets and Coats!

For me, Christmas is over, or at least Christmas projects are over. That means it's time for some serious end-of-year projects. I am really looking forward to the week I have off between Christmas and New Years and I have lots of ideas to keep me busy.

I was very excited when Marcia, a member on Stitcher's Guild, suggested A Jacket a Month for 2011 and I jumped on the bandwagon right away. This idea was inspired by Gigi who did this very thing this last year. I started reading her blog halfway through the year and was very impressed by her goal and her constant progress towards achieving it.

The rules for this group sew-a-long are very flexible and I made sure that coats were also acceptable. I already have more than 12 coats and jackets planned. It will be interesting to see what I can get done between now and Dec 2011.

If you are interested, come join us! It's free to join SG and there are wonderfully supportive and knowledgeable folks there. It will be a lively group. :)

Friday, December 10, 2010

Full Metal Holidays

Huh? Where am I?

It feels like it's been years since I've done any sewing. ;) This has been a very busy week, including a holiday luncheon/team building day for work. To that event, I wore my Santa hat which is a copy of one that Penny wore in last year's Christmas episode of the Big Bang Theory. I am a geek and I like that show. :)

You can find all the details of the hat on Ravelry. Search for "Penny's Hat."

This weekend is all Nutcracker, all the time. DD1 has four performances and I will be attending two of them so I can see both of her "major" roles. It's only Friday and I'm already tired for Monday.

Off to make some fudge. Think I will get any sewing done tonight or, indeed, at all this weekend? Somehow, I will manage to sew a bit, as I have deadlines! :)

Sunday, December 5, 2010

Felted Necklace - Greedy Gift Grab

Well, it's that time of year again. It was time to make (or buy) a gift for my sewing group's holiday party. The party was last night (and so much fun!!), so I can now post pics of what I brought.

I wanted to do something very different from last year, so I tossed around many ideas. I ended up making a necklace with elastic and felt balls. I have seen this sort of thing sold in boutiques – made by a couple different designers. It's nice that you can wear this piece different ways or even layer them if you have more than one.

So, what goody did I bring home? I received a beautiful silk scarf. (And when I say "I received", that is a euphemism for "I stole" this sought-over gift. :) ) I had never seen such an interesting design before. It's very much like those "water snake" tube toys that were popular a few years ago.

Except this is made with gorgeous silks. :)

Turns out this is available as a Vogue pattern. Somehow I'd never noticed this one before. It's Vogue 8551.

Vogue 8551

And I realized that I never posted my beautiful gift from last year! I received a box of beautiful handmade cards. I've used quite a few of them over this last year, so I realized I should take a couple photos before they are all gone.

I really appreciate my fun and creative sewing friends. They make such gorgeous things, but none of them blog about it.

Friday, December 3, 2010

Crocheted Felted Flower

After felting

Before felting

I wanted a felted flower for my Guy Laroche Meets Thakoon holiday jacket. I found this Crocheted Felted Flower Brooche pattern and downloaded it. I made my first one using Brown Sheep worsted lambswool and a size Q crochet hook, but it came out huge. I then took some Araucania Ranco Solid sock yarn (leftover from my Swiss Cheese scarf) and a size F crochet hook. I ran it through three consecutive cycles in the washing machine (no dryer), and voilĂ !