Sunday, June 5, 2016

Poncho for Paris, Hunger Games, and More


TOC:


Poncho for Paris

Another piece for Paris! (Or should I say, potentially for Paris... The final cut will be determined just before the trip.)

Margy gave me the idea of creating another layering to wear over the Minoru. Anne Whalley gave me the idea of using this particular pattern, out-of-print Burda 7313, view D. I tracked it down on ebay but, to be honest, it's a rectangle with a neck cut-out, so a pattern isn't strictly needed—you can find tutorials via Pinterest.

On two separate occasions I purchased some soft, drapey, heathered sweater knit: teal from Emma One Sock, and indigo from Stone Mountain. At first I was planning to finish the teal with a black knit binding, when it occurred to me that the indigo might be a better choice.

It's a very simple pattern. You cut out the poncho and finish the raw edges. Anne favors fold over elastic (FOE), but I prefer a fat knit binding. For the poncho, you want a fabric that looks good from both sides. This knit is brushed on the right side, but the back side is also acceptable.

I cut 10 yards from the indigo knit on the cross grain, in 2-1/2" strips, and joined the strips on the diagonal to reduce bulk. I pressed the final strip, wrong sides together, matching the raw edges. I sewed the raw edges of the strip to the right side of the poncho with a 1/4" seam. I then wrapped the folded edge to the wrong side and stitched it by hand. This creates a fat, 4-layer binding that makes my heart go pitter patter.

It took awhile to finish the hand sewing. I think that, in the end, I used 9 yards of the binding.

I like the finished poncho...

But would it work over the Minoru? I wasn't sure that it would...

But I think it does!

I love these Tagua nut earrings. I purchased them 5 or 6 years ago at one of my favorite boutiques (Emily Lee) which has, sadly, closed.

And speaking of the Minoru... Tasia of Sewaholic Patterns, who created the Minoru, has sold her business to a brick-and-mortar fabric store. You can read about it on her blog. This is causing consternation and speculation in the sewing community (particularly on Pattern Review and GOMI), but it sounds like they plan to continue selling Sewaholic's current patterns and to create new designs.


The Hunger Games Exhibition (and Costumes!)

I had heard about the Hunger Games Exhibition at the Palace of Fine Arts months ago. It is being held in the space that used to house the Exploratorium—the building is now called the Innovation Hangar). I couldn't get over there at the time, and then it slipped my mind. I remembered about it last week and wondered if it was still open.

It is.

I don't know a single soul who has seen this exhibit, but I decided to check out the costumes from the movies. The clothing is a central feature of this series.

I wasn't quite sure what to expect from the exhibit—the website is high on glitz and low on specifics. But what they've done is create a meandering experience where you move through a succession of rooms, roughly in the order that you see them in the movies. You start in the Hob, the economically depressed part of District 12 where Katniss lives, and you eventually reach the Capitol, with its excessive wealth, and President Snow, who might be called a president, but is actually a dictator. The exhibit ends in a room showcasing Katniss' most flamboyant dresses, including the wedding-dress-that-wasn't (though it's not on fire ;) ). Each room features costumes, props, still photos, and videos. There are even a few interactive activities.

For the most part, I focused on the costumes, though there was one green screen exhibit that I tried. When you come to the room with the chariot that Katniss and Peeta rode to the games, they have a green screen room. You stand behind a line and follow the stage directions instructing you when to wave, when to throw a kiss, when to look angry. They use the material to create a video and several still images (which you can buy). You can't see the result until later. It's a bit hokey, but you can see why I have no future in acting:

Luckily, I am not easily embarrassed. ;)

So, on to the costumes!

I found it interesting how much the costume designers pulled from contemporary fashion, especially for Katniss' clothing. For example, look at this asymmetric combination of a cowl and a vest—one of my favorite pieces.

They sell a "toned down" version of this cowl-vest in their gift shop, in oatmeal-colored acrylic, for $129. I suspected that there would be renditions of this on Ravelry. I searched when I got home and, sure enough, "Katniss Cowl" yields a number of interpretations.

I was alone as I went through the exhibit—it's not well advertised or well attended. Here's a peek at the "train" room:

The men's costumes are particularly interesting, featuring unusual shapes and details. I like some of the men's costumes better than the women's! The following jacket, worn by Peeta, features cargo pockets, with flaps, below welt pockets:

I particularly loved the shaped shawl collar/lapel combo on Haymitch's jacket:

This outfit, worn by Katniss, is very contemporary in its draping, layering, and combination of textiles:

The top of the raglan sleeves are made from gold leather (or faux leather)

The under sleeves are made from knit fabric

Textured pleather leggings. Excuse my hand—I didn't notice that it appeared in the reflection of the glass, and right at crotch level!

I definitely didn't remember that Peeta's duster-length dinner jacket was made from sheer organza! (I didn't see these movies in a theater. I "watched" them on TV, which I rarely really watch. Usually the TV is on while I'm sewing, or surfing the internet, so I miss visuals.)

The lapels and pocket flaps use a contrasting solid black fabric

It ends below his knees

An interesting neckline and cutaway silhouette on this dinner jacket, worn by Haymitch:

Sketches for the "girl on fire" dress:

Sketches for the wedding dress:

Outfits worn by Katniss and Cinna (her dress designer, played by Lenny Kravitz):

One room was dedicated to the games and included weaponry used by the contestants. I can't remember who wore this costume. Maybe Rue?

The final room:

This is a sampling of my photos. Effie's and President Snow's costumes were also featured, along with a Peacekeeper uniform. If you want to see these in person, the exhibit is in San Francisco through September. It started in New York, then moved San Francisco. It moves on to other cities in this "global tour", though I couldn't find a listing of cities and dates.

Caeser, the talking head (Stanley Tucci)
Another pic from the green screen session

I intentionally arrived early to the Palace of Fine Arts so I could spend some time wandering around. I hadn't been there since doing a photo shoot with my kids and their cousins several years ago. I arrived at 8am on Saturday, a chilly, overcast San Francisco morning. Several photo shoots were in process—engaged couples, shivering in the cold, memorializing their love against beautiful backdrops.

A napping swan family


Love and Friendship - The Movie

Have you heard of the new movie, Love and Friendship? Starring Kate Beckinsale and Chloe Sevigny, it's an adaption of an early story written by Jane Austen in the form of letters. I'd heard really great things about it—one of my young, male colleagues spoke very highly of it.

In fact, I heard it was hilarious.

I like hilarity, and I love Jane Austen. I was into Jane Austen back before she was "in". In fact, since first reading Pride & Prejudice in 1975, I re-read it every year for many years. Now I periodically re-watch the BBC version.

The movie was playing at my new favorite San Francisco Theatre, The Landmark. I went to see it Friday after work.

I was left wanting.

It wasn't bad. I mean, any Jane Austen is better than most other things. But the adaptation from the letters to screenplay wasn't adeptly handled. There isn't much action in the film but there is sure a lot of talking. Lots and lots of talking. We weren't shown why Lady Susan's daughter was so upset and troubled. We weren't shown a lot of things that were hinted at. And the ending was quite abrupt.

I didn't laugh at all. I smiled, yes, but that's not what I'd call a hilarious reaction. Maybe my expectations were too high.

The costumes were nice.

Afterwards I wandered around the Embarcadero. The weather was unbelievable—it was one of those rare evenings where you don't need a coat. I wandered along the bay. I didn't want to go inside!


Updated: French Sewing Glossary

In late March, I received an email from Bessie Crocker, a member of Stitcher's Guild. She had some feedback on my French Sewing Glossary post from 2009. As a result of our discussion, I updated the glossary. At the same time, I was preparing for a retreat, so I neglected to mention here that it's been updated.

Thanks so much for your feedback, Bessie!

If you have expertise in French and sewing and notice anything I should include or correct, please let me know!


There is lots going on Chez Shams, including more sewing, so I'm not sure I'll get another blog post out next weekend, but I'll try.

Have a great week!

Enjoying my computer monitor glasses—teal on the sides!

Monday, May 30, 2016

Sewing for Hot Weather


Well, it's time. If you have been reading my blog for awhile, you may remember back when DD1 went off to college in Oregon. In fact, it was four years ago. She graduates in the next couple of weeks. I'll be heading to Oregon for the occasion and it appears that the weather may be in the 90s.

The 90s.

ICK.

My least favorite weather to dress for is hot weather. And my least favorite sewing is clothing for hot weather. That, and home dec. ;)

I think I've figured out what I'll be wearing for the occasion, though my first try wasn't completely successful.

TOC:


Tank Dresses

When I visited Hawaii in 2014, I made a tank maxi dress. I used Style Arc Annie's Cami pattern and lengthened it to full length, flaring it to 60" at the hem. I was surprised at how much I enjoyed wearing that tank dress with my black voile tie top.

For that dress, I used a fabric that I received in a free FabricMart bundle. There was a problem, however. Every time I wore that dress, it sagged out around my bottom. My rear isn't that big—but the fabric was poor quality. After wearing the dress a few times and being annoyed by the bubble butt effect, I got rid of it.

I thought maybe the outfit I made for Hawaii would be a suitable outfit to wear to DD1's graduation if the weather is hot. I ordered 2 yards of a colorful viscose/lycra jersey from Marcy Tilton. (I can just barely squeeze a tank dress out of 2 yards if it's 60" wide. I can get away with a bit less if the pieces can be cut without regard to direction.) I also dug a black & cream, rayon/lycra, ikat print, jersey from my stash.

I made the pattern exactly the same as before, except I cut the dress 1" longer, based on the notes in my blog post. I made the black and white dress in a few hours on Friday evening, and the colorful one in a few hours on Saturday morning.

At least summer clothes can be a fast sew. ;)

I like these dresses, and they will be great to wear in hot weather, but once I saw the photos, I realized that these outfits are wrong for the graduation. They are too casual and the black tie top is too... heavy looking. It's very lightweight, but it doesn't look lightweight.

Back to the drawing board. I'm working on another ensemble.

Meanwhile, these dresses will come in handy. I am spending a week in NYC this summer. The fact that I'm going in the summertime shows you how determined I am to visit NYC, given my dislike of hot weather.

I like how nothing shows at the armhole - no bra peeking through.

I finished the neckline and armholes with self made binding: I cut 1-3/4" strips from selvedge to selvedge (the stretchiest direction). I pressed them in half and then "walked" them along the pattern, stretching more where I want a closer fit (at the bottom curve of the front and back armhole, or at the bottom curve of the neckline, for example) and stretching less where I want less of a body hugging effect. I cut them to that length, and sewed them into "rings" with a 1/4" seam, pressed open. I divided the openings, and the binding rings, into quarters, and pinned them at the one-quarter markings, placing the seam at CB. I sewed the bindings to the dress with a 1/4" seam allowance, stretching more in some areas, and less in others. The finished bindings show from the right side.

Necklaced purchased maybe 5 years ago, by Teresa Goodall


Floaty Top

On Sunday afternoon I was inspired to whip up a hot weather top. Not to wear to the graduation, but maybe when traveling to Oregon. In any case, it will be useful for one of the rare hot days we have in San Francisco or Mountain View.

Last summer (maybe when Patti F was visiting?) I purchased a wiggly, tie-dyed, striped, 100% rayon challis from Satin Moon. I finally had a flash of inspiration on how I wanted to use it: McCalls 7194, an asymmetric top. I made this top before using a very different fabric - a knit with holes. This fabric has zero stretch but beautiful drape.

I liked that this pattern would put the stripe on the bias, at least the way that I use it. I left a slit in the side with the long seam. I omitted the sleeves and finished the neckline and arm holes with self made bias binding. (Cut the stripes 1-1/2" wide, on a 45° bias, folded in half and pressed, and sewn to the openings with 1/4" seams. Then turned to the wrong side and topstitched in place.) I finished the hem and side slit with micro seams. I also matched the stripes at the side seams.

This top is floaty and easy to wear. The high quality rayon challis does wrinkle but, in my experience, the wrinkles tend to fall out quickly, especially when the garment is cut on the bias. (I love wearing the bias cut top I made from a rayon challis border print. And the wrinkles really do fall out.)

I'm wearing it here with bare arms, but I also ordered a 3/4-length sleeved, ivory mesh, Sleevey Wonder, so that's also an option.

Pinwheel earrings by Eccentric Designs


Frocktails

I was recently invited out after work for Frocktails.

Have you heard of Frocktails?

Well, let me enlighten you. The term originated in Australia in late 2015. Sewers were invited to wear a self made frock to a cocktail event. Voila, frock + cocktails = frocktails.

I became aware of the event, and a subsequent Frocktails event, on Instagram.

Savage Coco, pattern designer, invited me for drinks at a club in the Financial District. At first I thought she was using the word "Frocktails" loosely—she's wicked witty—but when she mentioned that she would be wearing this dress, I abandoned my idea of wearing my favorite Presto top (her pattern) and jeans. I had to try harder.

I don't own many frocks, but I dug into my closet and found McCalls 6028, made from Scuba knit and wool doubleknit. Luckily it was a chilly day in San Francisco, as I don't have any warm weather frocks. I topped it with my purple donuts coat and my metal thingie cowl.

Meeting SC was perfectly delightful! She sews beautifully, is wonderfully witty, and very glamorous. I look forward to many more Frocktails get togethers! You can follow Savage Coco Patterns (or me) on Instagram.


Pressing Tools

I've blogged before about my collection of much loved pressing tools, particularly those from Stitch Nerd.

I still wanted a contour custom ham. And when I saw this wonderful quilting cotton at Britex, I bought one yard and sent it off to Stitch Nerd to sew into a contour ham and a pressing mitt.


I seem to be alternating sewing for my Paris wardrobe and for hot weather. I expect that to continue, though I have many items in the queue for Paris, so I can't take my eye off that deadline. In fact, I am working on another layer for Paris right now. It's requiring a lot of hand sewing, and I'm not yet sure how much I like it, but I feel it's worth taking a creative risk. The worst thing that can happen is that it doesn't make the cut for Paris. Or maybe I lose a little fabric. ;)

Join me on Patti's Visible Monday and have a great week!

Sunday, May 22, 2016

Teal Minoru for Paris


TOC:


Teal Minoru

I've finished a cornerstone piece of my Paris wardrobe!

As you can see, I've selected a teal, cobalt, and black color palette. I bought this gorgeous brocade from Marcy Tilton over the Christmas break. When I first saw it, I sent Marcy's team an email asking for more information—I had a question about the color—but I didn't actually order it. Then my friend, Patti F from Chicago, emailed me that she had just ordered a gorgeous fabric from Marcy and she sent me a pic.

It was the same fabric!

Marcy often doesn't carry large amounts of a fabric, so I quickly put in an order. Once her team returned from the holidays, they informed me that they only had 1.5 yards of the brocade left and did I want it. I said yes and figured I'd find a way to use it.

When Patti received the five yards that she had ordered, she decided that she didn't want to use it for the project that she originally had in mind. She offered to sell me 1.5 yards.

Thanks to her kindness, I was able to make the Minoru that I originally envisioned.

THANKS SO MUCH, PATTI!

I made my first Minoru over the holidays. That coat quickly became a wardrobe staple. I LOVE it! I knew I wanted to make it again for my Paris wardrobe, when Margy pointed out that gorgeous brocade.

I actually started this project at a sewing retreat last March, but I couldn't finish it. I ordered a custom zipper that didn't arrive in time, I needed decent shoulder pads (the shoulder pads available at Hart's were nasty foam pads by Dritz), and I didn't have the right lining fabric. I finished the shell of the coat and moved on to other things.

The project languished for awhile until I returned to it a couple weeks ago. The zipper arrived (though I didn't notice at first that it wasn't the double-ended zipper that I thought I had ordered), I bought some nice shoulder pads from Britex, and a gorgeous silk charmeuse lining from Emma One Sock.

Sewing in the sleeve lining

In addition to the changes I made for the first coat, I made a few additional changes for this version:

  • The brocade wrinkles badly, so I underlined the entire jacket with Pam Erny's ProSHEER Elegance LIGHT Fusible Interfacing. Her interfacings are fabulous, but this fabric was a bit resistant and wanted to peel away, so I also sewed around the raw edges of each pattern piece.
  • Shortened the sleeves by 1" and drafted a sleeve hem facing.
  • Omitted the hood.
  • Stiffened the collar stand with rows of machine quilting.
  • The jacket, as designed, gathers into the collar. I took a note from Margy and replaced the gathers with darts.
  • In addition to the welt pockets on the coat, I made two internal patch pockets on the lining—it's perfect for stashing travel documents, cash, or credit cards!
  • This fabric also ravels like crazy. I could have serged around the raw edges, but I didn't. I just dealt with it.

I'm mostly happy with this coat. I wish I had done a bit more shaping at the side seams but I'm not sure I feel strongly enough that I want to open up the lining to address that. I love the color. Look for more teal, blue, and black coming from my sewing room!


Accessories

Since I know someone will ask, so...

I bought this "button" necklace at Style 16 from Judith Content. Judith is a textile artist and she also sells these wonderful button necklaces and earrings. She starts with white plastic buttons and she stencils and paints them. She mixes them with fibers and creates delightful jewelry. In fact, I found a Pinterest board that someone created of her work. You can also follow her on Instagram.

I love Fly London footwear and these are the Fly London Simi boots in Petrol. A cool feature of these boots is that they have four functioning zippers - one on the inside and outside of each boot.


Google I/O

Last week was Google I/O, the conference for developers who use Google services and APIs. For the first time it was held at the Shoreline Amphitheater in Mountain View. I had a deliverable for this event. As part of that effort, I also worked two shifts during the show.

This meant I was compelled to wear a tee shirt.

This is sartorial hell for me. I love wearing tee shirts, for sleeping in.

I feel frumpy in a boxy tee shirt. In order to get a tee that fits my uber bust, I take an XL... in MEN'S. (The women's sizes are so small...) The sleeves end at my bust line, emphasizing my uber-ness. The crew neck doesn't flatter me. It's super long, which is great in a sleep shirt, but adds to the "tent-like" effect.

Yes, I could do some tailoring, but I don't see the point for a shirt I will wear in public exactly once. I mitigated the frumptastic effect with some fun earrings and shoes, purchased from Simply Bella. (You have to call as these aren't listed on her site, but they come in at least five colors.)

One of my favorite displays at the show is the new self driving car.

It's so CUTE! I want one.

I wonder what the pedals are for...

They invited graffiti on this giant Android

We've had a rainy spring, at least for us. I have never seen a mushroom like this before—I took this pic near my office in Mountain View.

Do you know what kind of mushroom this is?


CBS Sunday Morning

I know I've mentioned before that one of my favorite TV programs is CBS Sunday Morning. Once a year they have an episode dedicated to design-—this is my favorite. Today's design episode had a piece on Dressing Down: the Rise of Athleisure, which you can watch at that link.

They also had a wonderful piece on the home of Christian Dior in the south of France, which has recently been re-opened: The House of Dior.

But I think my favorite story was about British architect, Thomas Heatherwick. Wow his work is STUNNING. I particularly love the "garden bridge" he has planned for over the Thames, which reminds me of the High Line in NYC. (I've never seen the High Line in person, but I hope to remedy that this summer.)

When I was reading up about his amazing work, I saw that he has designed a new campus in Mountain View for Google. Somehow I missed that announcement last year. Sheesh, it looks unreal. I wonder if this will happen in my lifetime...


I have more projects in various stages of completion. My daughter's graduation is in a couple of weeks and it may be hot, so I need to address that wardrobe need.

Have a great week!